Replace heat and air in my house

[gear jammer]

I have been looking at the ratings on central heat and air units. Read review after review and am just as confused now as when I started. Any suggestions on how to narrow and continue my research. I also looked at the rating for the local dealers. The one I have been using retired and was bought out. Most of his employees were with him for years and will retire soon.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated, thanks.

[MstrCarpenter]

I'm assuming you have forced hot air (furnace) burning some type of fossil fuel and an "A" coil for cooling from an outside condenser. FYI; A high efficiency 90%+ condensing furnace will probably not be able to vent directly into a chimney; typically they vent with 2" PVC. 

My only suggestion would be to replace all three components with one brand designed to work together. I would not do an A.C. only condenser. For a couple hundred more, I would get the heat pump. It will probably pay for itself in the first year. The only better payback for heating is insulation and/or air sealing. Solar and geothermal offer better long term returns but the payback is longer and we've already missed the best tax credits.

[Roly]

<p>

I'm assuming you have forced hot air (furnace) burning some type of fossil fuel and an "A" coil for cooling from an outside condenser. FYI;&nbsp;A high efficiency 90%+ condensing furnace will probably not be able to vent directly into a chimney; typically they vent with 2" PVC.&nbsp;

My only suggestion would be to replace all three components with one brand designed to work together. I would not do an A.C. only condenser. For a couple hundred more, I would get the heat pump. It will probably pay for itself in the first year. The only better payback for heating is insulation and/or air sealing. Solar and geothermal offer better long term returns but the payback is longer and we've already missed the best tax credits.

<br></p><p>&nbsp;The additional utility rebate for the heat pump was only $300 more. &nbsp; As said get a matched system that everything has been rated together. Roly<br></p>

[MarkSLSmith]

<p>

I'm assuming you have forced hot air (furnace) burning some type of fossil fuel and an "A" coil for cooling from an outside condenser. FYI;&nbsp;A high efficiency 90%+ condensing furnace will probably not be able to vent directly into a chimney; typically they vent with 2" PVC.&nbsp;

My only suggestion would be to replace all three components with one brand designed to work together. I would not do an A.C. only condenser. For a couple hundred more, I would get the heat pump. It will probably pay for itself in the first year. The only better payback for heating is insulation and/or air sealing. Solar and geothermal offer better long term returns but the payback is longer and we've already missed the best tax credits.

</p><p><br></p><p>Question about the heat pump.&nbsp; Is your statement about the cost savings true if the furnace is natural gas?&nbsp; I would think the extra electric charge would be more than the natural gas.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'm interested in this thread also, I have a 28 yr old furnace and a 20 yr old AC, a rare coincidence of expected end of lifetime.</p>

[MstrCarpenter]

<p>

</p><p>
</p><p><br></p><p>Question about the heat pump.&nbsp; Is your statement about the cost savings true if the furnace is natural gas?&nbsp; I would think the extra electric charge would be more than the natural gas.&nbsp; &nbsp;I'm interested in this thread also, I have a 28 yr old furnace and a 20 yr old AC, a rare coincidence of expected end of lifetime.</p><p>

</p><p><br></p><p>Obviously it would depend on your electric and gas pricing as well as the efficiency&nbsp;of of each unit and the outdoor temperature while the heat pump is operating (It's&nbsp;getting heat from cold air, so just as your A.C. works harder when it's quite hot outside, in heat mode it will work harder if it's quite cold.) Even though newer units can deliver sufficient heat down into the 20's, it's not nearly as efficient and it really&nbsp;beats on the units. The real savings are when the delta T&nbsp;is closer. Unless one of your utilities rates are exceptionally high or low, you could see close to 50% savings when it's above&nbsp;40*.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p>

[Snipe Hunter]

From the home inspectors viewpoint:
The longest running units I see tend to be RHEEM and RUUD (same basic products). Technicians hate Lennox because they use unique parts and the parts are pricey. Believe it or not, a lot of techs like Goodman because parts are easy to get and cheap but that doesn't necessarily make them good units. I think they are very loud in comparison to others. You can buy Goodman online for pretty cheap and just hire an installer.

That being said:

PM Blackhat and get his input

[joe1086]

<p>

&nbsp;Believe it or not, a lot of techs like Goodman because parts are easy to get and cheap but that doesn't necessarily make them good units. I think they are very loud in comparison to others.&nbsp;

</p><p><br></p><p>Our next door neighbor has a Goodman heat pump/AC/furnace combo.&nbsp;</p><p>I CAN CONFIRM IT IS LOUD.</p>

[blackhat]

My approach would be a bit different, I have a different perspective being on the other side of the fence if you will.  I would pick 3 different supply houses in the general area and pay each a visit.  Ask for the branch manager and ask him for a list of 3 contractors in the area that he would recommend to his own family.  Ask him if you could put the same question to one of his counter sales guys.  Be prepared to be refused, some places have strict policies against recommendations.  If you get the same company recommended a couple times by different places, start with them.

[gear jammer]

I talked to the men in the morning coffee shop, also some neighbors and read reviews on the net. I called two local contractors Friday to get some bids. One carries Heil  units and the other Carrier and American Standard. We'll see what their bids are. I'm expecting 5 figures on the bids. All three of these brands carry good consumer reviews.

Also Had a couple bids on water proofing my basement. House is only 1200 sq. ft. The bids were highest $17.5 and the other was 8.6k. Lot of upsell on the first bid and the second one was taking bids for next spring claiming labor shortage and strong business. Second one came well recommended and great reviews.

[Snipe Hunter]

<p>

I talked to the men in the morning coffee shop,&nbsp;also some neighbors and read reviews on the net. I called two local contractors Friday to get some bids. One carries Heil&nbsp; units and the other Carrier and American Standard. We'll see what their bids are. I'm expecting 5 figures on the bids. All three of these brands carry good consumer reviews.

Also Had a couple bids on water proofing my basement. House is only 1200 sq. ft. The bids were highest $17.5 and the other was 8.6k. Lot of upsell on the first bid and the second one was taking bids for next spring claiming labor shortage and strong business. Second one came well recommended and great reviews.

</p><p><br></p><p>About waterproofing,</p><p><br></p><p>Does it really need it? Have you done everything outside to get water away from the foundation? About 90% of basement water problems are caused by problems outside... grading, clogged rain gutters, downspouts terminating too close to the foundation etc. Most "water proofers" address the water already inside the basement by sealing walls, french drains etc... but the water is still getting into the basement or stacking up inside block walls. An insurance study said that most water basement water intrusion projects, if done correctly can be done by the homeowner under $1000. The average "water proofer" invoice is north of $10,000<br></p>