Need help with drill press motor

[msweig]

So the motor on my old Delta DP220 bit the dust.  I decided to see if I could find an old one that works.  Found one on ebay that looked promising, but who knows how well it would have worked since it was damaged in shipping (shipper didn't pack it well and the box on the side where the switch was located looked like it had been dropped on that end.  Switch was busted.  I swapped it out with the switch on my old motor, tried turning it on, there was a spark and the breaker switched.  Then I tried spinning the shaft and it wasn't smooth).

It looks like this would take some time to get to work (if it even will).  But at this point I'm just done with it.  I need to get my drill press up and running again so I can actually finish the project I'm working on.  Time to just go with a modern motor.

So based on the specs of the motor I have, etc. I believe this motor from Leeson will work.
Motor
Another link with additional photos: link

But where I get confused is that these are obviously not ready to go.  Doesn't appear to be a power cord or a switch.  Also, it appears this one's default is CCW, but obviously I want it to go CW (and it appears to be reversible). 

So based on the old ones it looks like there are two wires in the control box, and then you run the power cord into there, and attach those two cords to one end of the switch, and the power cord to the other.  But then I found a video online that showed how to wire a switch into a Leeson motor and it is completely different.  It appears that there are several wires in the box (I'm assuming all the ones that were on the endplate of the old motor I have that allowed you to switch rotation and voltage).  So I am completely confused regarding how I'm supposed to wire this.  

I've found the spec sheet for the motor: link.  Second to last page appears to have the information I need, but I have no idea how to read this.  I'm assuming that the wires are labelled and you connect everything via wire nuts, but I'm not sure how this all connects.  Other than it appears T1, T3, and T5 go together, and T2, T4, and T8 go together.  Do I put the two wires (white and black) from the power cord on one end of the switch (and attach ground to casing).  And then somehow I attach wires in the box to the switch?

In short, HELP!

Thanks in advance, and if it helps I can post a photo of the switch that I have.  The switches I have were identical in both motors, but if I had to guess they are old.

[mike4244]

So the motor on my old Delta DP220 bit the dust.  I decided to see if I could find an old one that works.  Found one on ebay that looked promising, but who knows how well it would have worked since it was damaged in shipping (shipper didn't pack it well and the box on the side where the switch was located looked like it had been dropped on that end.  Switch was busted.  I swapped it out with the switch on my old motor, tried turning it on, there was a spark and the breaker switched.  Then I tried spinning the shaft and it wasn't smooth).

It looks like this would take some time to get to work (if it even will).  But at this point I'm just done with it.  I need to get my drill press up and running again so I can actually finish the project I'm working on.  Time to just go with a modern motor.

So based on the specs of the motor I have, etc. I believe this motor from Leeson will work.
Motor
Another link with additional photos: link

But where I get confused is that these are obviously not ready to go.  Doesn't appear to be a power cord or a switch.  Also, it appears this one's default is CCW, but obviously I want it to go CW (and it appears to be reversible). 

So based on the old ones it looks like there are two wires in the control box, and then you run the power cord into there, and attach those two cords to one end of the switch, and the power cord to the other.  But then I found a video online that showed how to wire a switch into a Leeson motor and it is completely different.  It appears that there are several wires in the box (I'm assuming all the ones that were on the endplate of the old motor I have that allowed you to switch rotation and voltage).  So I am completely confused regarding how I'm supposed to wire this.  

I've found the spec sheet for the motor: link.  Second to last page appears to have the information I need, but I have no idea how to read this.  I'm assuming that the wires are labelled and you connect everything via wire nuts, but I'm not sure how this all connects.  Other than it appears T1, T3, and T5 go together, and T2, T4, and T8 go together.  Do I put the two wires (white and black) from the power cord on one end of the switch (and attach ground to casing).  And then somehow I attach wires in the box to the switch?

In short, HELP!

Thanks in advance, and if it helps I can post a photo of the switch that I have.  The switches I have were identical in both motors, but if I had to guess they are old.

Take your old motor to a reputable motor shop. They will either re-build your motor or sell you a new one. 
Before I would buy a motor online I would have to be sure I knew what I was getting.

[mike4244]

Take your old motor to a reputable motor shop. They will either re-build your motor or sell you a new one. 
Before I would buy a motor online I would have to be sure I knew what I was getting.

I just looked at the specs. This motor is 1/3 HP. I have a similar DP, my motor is 1HP.
What is the HP of the original motor? I also have a Craftsmen bench type that is 70 years old and is in excellent condition. I installed a new 1/2 HP motor about 15/20 years ago. Original was also 1/2 HP but the wiring was old and the insulation was coming off. I bought a new motor from Grizzly.
mike

[msweig]

Already did that with the first one. He said at a minimum it needs to be rewound ($500+). And I see darkening on the winding on the ebay motor, which the motor shop guy said was not a good sign and can indicate needing to be rewound. And it didn't spin very smoothly, so my guess is something inside is broken, or the bearings are shot.

I'm done with the old motors. This is worse than trying to get an old hand tool tuned up to work well. While I can do it, I'd rather be woodworking.

[msweig]

Original was a 1/3hp 1725rpm. Owwm.org forums mentioned that 1/3 or 1/2 hp would be fine.

[TDKPE]

I would go for a 1/2 hp Grizzly for less money.  NEMA 56 frame, and reversible.  

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly...220v/g2901

You need a remote on/off switch.  For a small motor like that, you can use a toggle type switch, or a line voltage push button station, like this Grizzly unit.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/woodsto...230v/d4151

[TDKPE]

Oh, that Leeson you posted has a NEMA 48 frame which has a 1/2” shaft.  The step pulley on the motor probably has a 5/8” bore.  My Delta radial arm DP is basically the same as yours as far as the quill and business bits go, and it has a 5/8” bore motor step pulley.  

Do check the shaft diameter, as it’s clumsy at best to bush that shaft up to 5/8”.  

Measure the distance on the original (dead) motor from the shaft center to the mounting surface, and measure the shaft diameter.  If the shaft to foot distance is 3” with a 1/2” shaft, it’s a 48 frame.  If it’s 3-1/2” with 5/8” shaft, it’s a 56 frame.

[barryvabeach]

I agree with Poindexter.  In order of importance, you want to have the same frame and diameter and length of shaft ( makes mounting it much easier ).  Ideally, you would want same RPM -  either 3,600 or 1,750.  HP is pretty flexible, it is a drill press.  I am no real expert, but IIRC on my cheap drill press,  I have an open drip proof motor, like the one Poindexter linked to, which is usually cheaper than a TEFC motor like the Leeson you linked.  The Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled motor is much more important where the motor will be in a dusty environment, like a table saw, jointer or bandsaw. 

 When you get down to wiring, it should be fairly straight forward.   The PDF on the Leeson shows on page 4 of 5 that if you are hooking it up to 120 volts  ( not 240 ) the T1, T3 and T5 connectors would be linked together, and you would attach that to the black wire ( which is goes to the switch ),  T2, T4 and T8 are attached to the white wire.  That would give you    CW.  Yes, you are correct that the chart lays out a variety of wires depending on whether you are using 120 or 240 and which way you want the motor to rotate.   

I also agree that it is usually not cost effective to have a motor rewired.   

Let me know where you are,  I have an older Sears motor that may work,  depending on the frame and shaft.

[msweig]

It's a 1/2 inch shaft. Frame is something bizarre/uncommon, but that Leeson 48 looks like it'll fit on the motor mount based on the dimensions.

And the pulley is 1/2". It is a 14 inch drill press.

[TDKPE]

I'm assuming that the wires are labelled and you connect everything via wire nuts, but I'm not sure how this all connects.  Other than it appears T1, T3, and T5 go together, and T2, T4, and T8 go together.  Do I put the two wires (white and black) from the power cord on one end of the switch (and attach ground to casing).  And then somehow I attach wires in the box to the switch?

In short, HELP!

The motor lead connection you posted will give you rotation in the wrong direction.  Traditionally, shaft rotation is as viewed from the end opposite the shaft (“lead end” in the drawing).  So you want to swap T5 and T8.  That’s also assuming you want to run it on 120V power, which would be normal for such a small motor.

If the switch is single-pole (two terminals), then you switch the incoming hot lead, which is normally the black one in a flexible cord.  The neutral is not switched, and connects to either group of three joined leads in the motor junction box.  T1-T3-T8-L1 for instance, where L1 is one of the two leads from the power cord.  

If the power switch is a 2-pole type (four terminals) then you can switch both the hot and the neutral from the power cord, but you don’t have to if you don’t want to.