BLO questions

[Aram]

I have not used BLO in a decade and a half, but I will be again soon. A couple questions.

I know enough to clean up any spills, and soak my rags in a water-filled container before I dispose of them. But I will be applying finish in my garage shop -- at least, that's the plan -- which is not ventilated at all. is that a safety risk? Second question, the shop is not (yet) insulated, and temps get into the 50s at night. I use an IR heater during the day (if I will be working in there) and that's good for mid 60s. Those temps are on the low side. Granted it will take longer to dry than if the room were warmer, which is merely annoying but fine, but are those temps problematic for any reason?

Thanks in advance.

[fredhargis]

My opinions, based on experience not lab tests. The odor, while noticeable, is not going to be much of a problem unless someone is especially attuned to it. I wouldn't want to be exposed to it for a long time, but applying it and letting it sit shouldn't be a problem. The odor isn't harmful as it s for solvents. As for the cure time, it won't be a little slower....it will be extremely slower....but it will cure. The curing is a chemical reaction, and like most chemical reactions it slows down with the temps. But it will get there. The temps won't cause anything bad to happen.

[cputnam]

As Fred stated, no issues. A coat of shellac can serve to seal in the BLO and also serve as a base for whatever final finish you want. Adding the shellac coat avoids the long wait for the BLO to cure. In fact, shellac may give you the color effect for which you are looking.

[Aram]

My opinions, based on experience not lab tests. The odor, while noticeable, is not going to be much of a problem unless someone is especially attuned to it. I wouldn't want to be exposed to it for a long time, but applying it and letting it sit shouldn't be a problem. The odor isn't harmful as it s for solvents. As for the cure time, it won't be a little slower....it will be extremely slower....but it will cure. The curing is a chemical reaction, and like most chemical reactions it slows down with the temps. But it will get there. The temps won't cause anything bad to happen.

As Fred stated, no issues.  A coat of shellac can serve to seal in the BLO and also serve as a base for whatever final finish you want.  Adding the shellac coat avoids the long wait for the BLO to cure.  In fact, shellac may give you the color effect for which you are looking.

Thanks, both of you.

My finish schedule will be BLO, then shellac, for sure. I tried BLO and a couple different tints of shellac on scrap wood, to see which looks best. And I am definitely not putting anything but wax over the shellac. Anyway, good point about it sealing the BLO, thanks.

[AHill]

As Fred stated, no issues.  A coat of shellac can serve to seal in the BLO and also serve as a base for whatever final finish you want.  Adding the shellac coat avoids the long wait for the BLO to cure.  In fact, shellac may give you the color effect for which you are looking.

??

Curt, wouldn't the shellac prevent or considerably lengthen the time for the BLO to cure?  One of the most common causes of failed coatings is now allowing a coat to completely cure or at least cure to the point where it's dimensionally stable before applying the next coat of finish.  I'd wait 24-72 hours before applying shellac over BLO.  And I'd wipe off any excess BLO after applying.  The more BLO soaks into your wood, the more time it's going to take to cure.  There are varnishes out there that combine BLO and shellac.  The shellac allows the BLO to dry quicker and harder.

You could also mix mineral spirits and poly with the BLO to allow it to cure quicker and harder.  One of the first home made finishes I discovered was a mixture of equal parts of BLO, MS, and Poly.  If you're going to mix in the poly, make sure it's oil-based and not water-based.  Water and BLO don't mix well.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I’d skip BLO and go straight to shellac. Shellac will still nicely accentuate the grain and color while saving you a lot of drying time.

[Aram]

I’d skip BLO and go straight to shellac.  Shellac will still nicely accentuate the grain and color while saving you a lot of drying time.

I have done that, and for some woods, it is a great look. For my current project, the BLO pop is going to be worth it.

[Willyou]

I suggest that you try a sample of Waterlox before you settle on your final finish. I'm betting it will give you a similar look. At the same time, you won't have the same drying issues and it will be more durable.
Since you already have the BLO, you can also try a mix of equal parts of BLO, mineral spirits (paint thinner), and alkyd varnish (if you can find some) or oil based poly. Add a little japan drier according to directions and it will dry over night. Apply with a folded blue towel and apply 5-6 very thin coats.

[rwe2156]

I use it rarely by itself, as Willyou ^^ mentioned, usually thinned or mixed with polyurethane for sealing MDF, equaly parts BLO, Naphtha, and Poly.

Actually I hate the stuff.

[Alan S]

The 1:1:1 mixture of BLO, mineral spirits, and oil-based varnish is sometimes known as Maloof finish, because he used it. That's a pretty strong endorsement.

The only advantage to BLO over Waterlox or Maloof finish is that nothing significant needs to evaporate, so less ventilation is needed.

I wouldn't use BLO on the inside of drawers or other enclosed spaces. That's where the odor can remain a problem.