Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
(12-21-2021, 11:47 AM)crokett™ Wrote: on rounding bowl blanks. He says he doesn't do it on bandsaws because they're not really designed for cutting wet, thick wood. He has a point there. In this video he cuts the log in half to create the bowl blanks, then takes them straight to the lathe. I at least will knock the corners off. My lathe is smaller and I get nervous spinning big pieces.
Lyle on Chainsaw Use for Woodturning.mp4 - YouTube
Won't be round after it's roughed wet and cures, anyway. If it clears the ways, it's good enough.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 10,728
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
I don't have a nice supply of freshly cut logs to make bowl blanks from, so most all of my bowl blanks are cured and dried wood. Not a challenge for my band saw. It's not the band saw that's the problem with green wood. It's the bandsaw blade. If you're wanting to cut green wood on the bandsaw, you need a blade designed to do that. Some sappy woods I'd never ever cut on a bandsaw while green, though. Almond is one of those. When green, it's so sappy, the sap coats the blade, things heat up, and then you've pretty much ruined your blade.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
Posts: 10,728
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
I don't have a nice supply of freshly cut logs to make bowl blanks from, so most all of my bowl blanks are cured and dried wood. Not a challenge for my band saw. It's not the band saw that's the problem with green wood. It's the bandsaw blade. If you're wanting to cut green wood on the bandsaw, you need a blade designed to do that. They are thicker than a normal blade, have a lower tpi and a wider kerf to clear the gullets. I remember Ron Herman in a class about saws at one of the Woodworking In America conferences talking about why a normal saw blade geometry doesn't work well in green wood. As the saw cuts, it heats up the wood. The moisture in the wood causes the wood to expand, which closes the kerf, thus binding the saw. Wide, deep gullets with a lower tpi and bigger set mitigate this problem.
Some sappy woods I'd never ever cut on a bandsaw while green, though. Almond is one of those. When green, it's so sappy, the sap coats the blade, things heat up, and then you've pretty much ruined your blade.
I also disagree with his claim that the bandsaw was not designed to cut thick wood. If that were the case, there sure are a lot of people making shop cut veneer who are violating his principle.
Not disparaging Lyle as a turner. He's one of the greats. And what works for him is fine. I did get a little nervous seeing him split that log with the chains so close to the frame of the WorkMate.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
Posts: 13,934
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2002
Location: Texas
Yes you are correct however he's talking about home band saws
It's his opinion. Take it or leave it
Posts: 21,259
Threads: 2
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: IA
on cutting the corners he shown me how fast he can round off the edges faster then a bandsaw can cut them plus he told me i needed the practice anyway.
I do cut alot of the corners to use them for the fireplace later but if i am in a rush I just turn them off.
I can turn a half log to round in less then 10 minutes. One other thing about cutting corners is less shavings. It sure was nice of him stopping in three times to show me and the others how to use the tools properly
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
Posts: 27,980
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2002
Location: Pacific ocean now much further away!
Octagons maybe. Mostly squares.
The corners come off pretty fast!
VH07V