How would you attack this base to the top?

[jteneyck]

I client asked me to prep some oak for this 4ft diameter table.  I'm pretty sure I'll end up doing most of the build, too, which brings up the question on how best to attach the base to the top.  It will all be solid wood so the top needs to be able to slide over the base in the cross grain direction.  The top also needs to be removeable so that it can fit through doorways.  



How would you do it?

John

[Willyou]

Figure 8s are my first thought. You might want several of them because of the weight of the piece. I might also consider some steel plates screwed to the legs and mortised into the underside of the top. Of course, the screws would go through oblong holes and the mortises would be slightly oversize to allow for seasonal movement.

[fredhargis]

The figure 8 washers are my first thought as well.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I would look high and low for a mechical fastening system but I don’t know if such thing exists. Could floating tenons in an elongated slot possibly work so expansion is allowed? Grain matching plugs from the top would work but It wouldn’t be my first choice.

I guess you could always nail it from the top with 10 penny nails?.

[jteneyck]

I would look high and low for a mechical fastening system but I don’t know if such thing exists.  Could floating tenons in an elongated slot possibly work so expansion is allowed? Grain matching plugs from the top would work but It wouldn’t be my first choice.

I guess you could always nail it from the top with 10 penny nails?.

I'm thinking along similar lines.  I think loose tenons glued into the underside of the top and held by dowels or tapered wedges through the side of the base in oversized mortises in the top of the base pieces would work well.  

Nothing against figure 8's; they just don't seem proportionally correct for the job.  

John

[Admiral]

I'm thinking along similar lines.  I think loose tenons glued into the underside of the top and held by dowels or tapered wedges through the side of the base in oversized mortises in the top of the base pieces would work well.  

Nothing against figure 8's; they just don't seem proportionally correct for the job.  

John

+1

[joe1086]

Looks heavy. All solid construction? Need something stout when someone decides to move it by picking it up by the tabletop alone.

I'd consider machining some 2" x 4" (?) aluminum plates out of 1/4 stock, one for each of the four stand sections. Bolt them to legs and create pockets on the underside of the table so they sit flush. Elongate the holes where appropriate to accommodate movement. Use threaded inserts for all the bolts. 

Find a way to attach a hidden wrench under the table because folks that shop at RH aren't likely to have tools. 

[srv52761]

After glue-up the table will only move in one direction.  
With the base as an "x" you  can align the top so the grain runs parallel to one axis of the x.  
Pocket screws covered with matching plugs along that axis.  
Let the rest of the table float on the perpendicular axis.

Why introduce something that just makes life miserable?

Edit:  Never mind.  This addresses the movement of the top, but if the base  is end grain up, then you will have movement in the base, also.

If the wood of the top and the base are the same or have similar movement characteristics, you can still use pocket screws, but now you would have to use the base axis across the grain to match expansion rates.

[cpolubin]

Another option would be to use z-clips. Run them along one side of the legs parallel to the grain. Then on the legs perpendicular to the grain run them along one or both sides with slots to allow for movement. That should be strong enough when someone lifts the table.

Cliff

[Cooler]

I dismantled a table that looked like that (but was made from veneered particle board) and it was attached with dowels.  That would not be a good choice for solid lumber however.