Kitchen Cabinet Paint

[2link2]

I'm trying to figure out best way to go money wise on painting my new kitchen cabinets. I can get them shop painted (I think they use conversion varnish) and have fantastic looking cabinets costing aprx. 4K. Or I can have them painted after install by a pro for about 2K using an alkyd water based paint made for cabinetry like this. https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/inte...rior-paint
My question is has anyone had experience with this paint or know of another product that may be better ?
Thanks

[Cabinet Monkey]

I'm trying to figure out best way to go money wise on painting my new kitchen cabinets. I can get them shop painted (I think they use conversion varnish) and have fantastic looking cabinets costing aprx. 4K. Or I can have them painted after install by a pro for about 2K using an alkyd water based paint made for cabinetry like this. https://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/inte...rior-paint
My question is has anyone had experience with this paint or know of another product that may be better ?
Thanks

1. 4 grand is cheap for a set of kitchen cabinets.  

2. Conversion Varnish is waaaaaaaaay better than BenMoore Advance.   Which, takes weeks to cure. 

3. Factory / shop finishing is almost always preferable to on site finishing. 

4. Sure there are better products out there , but they are expensive  ($ hundreds per gallon) , have a steep learning curve, and require top notch equipment to apply. 

Take your first option everyday of the week.

[ajkoontz]

While I agree with almost everything the first responder posted, I’d rather save $2k. But I’m cheap. And how hard are you really going to be on your cabinets? I painted mine myself with a SW product similar to the BM and they are holding up ok to my eye. I’m sure shop painted is better, but is it $2k better? Only you can answer that.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I could go either way with this decision. I’ve used a good amount of Advance on painted furniture and all the trim in my house. I love Advance. Especially compared to old oil based enamels.

Aside from saving $2k, another benefit is the ease of repairing or completely redoing the finish of these cabinets. Simple, low VOC, no special equipment needed or high skill. All cabinets will need repairs or refreshing if it’s a busy kitchen. Even the CV.

On the flip side, If I was doing a high end kitchen in my “forever home”, I’d do the best finish I could afford. Especially if younger kids wouldn’t be beating it up.

Maybe tinted pre cat lacquer would be an on-site option for a similar price to the Advance?

[Cabinet Monkey]

Aside from saving $2k, another benefit is the ease of repairing or completely redoing the finish of these cabinets.  Simple, low VOC, no special equipment needed or high skill.  All cabinets will need repairs or refreshing if it’s a busy kitchen.  Even the CV. 

Maybe tinted pre cat lacquer would be an on-site option for a similar price to the Advance?

While a high degree of “skill” may not be needed , a real attention to detail and effort is needed. And while you can roll Advance on , the best jobs are achieved by spraying.  Which requires more prep and equipment most homeowners don’t have lying around.  



All kitchens (finishes) don’t require refinishing with heavy use and time.  Some are better than others. I’ve been to kitchens we did 25+ years ago where the finish still looks fantastic - high gloss hand rubbed lacquer.  And two families with little kids growing up have lived there. 



Pre cat is not a good on site choice unless the home is unoccupied for a long time.  Even then, it won’t be competitive with an acrylic job.  If it is , you should be very worried about the person you’ve engaged.

Also, I wouldn’t be scared of site finish. Of course shop finishing has big advantages but a good on site finisher should be taking some proactive steps to help mitigate dust control.

Right,   but how good of a painter do you think $2k (or less) is going to buy?  Certainly not one who thoroughly de-greases all the surfaces, sands them  and fixes/fills defects. before priming them.  Then sands the prime coat and re-inspects for defects before the finish coat ?  And you want dust control with that sanding?  
  
  

.but don’t expect any painter to always use the products that will give the best results. I’ve seen latex wall paint used on a custom made set of paint grade cabinets in a $600k house a few years back here in KC.

This is exactly why I said go with the factory job.  It's really easy and quick to see what the finished results are likely to be.   Too many variables with site based finishes and past performance at the Smith residence is not easily translated to the Jones'.  And when your #1 objective is price / saving money - getting a good on site tradesman and a good job are extremely difficult , in not down right impossible.

Bottom line is , I cannot imagine a set of cabinets a big as described for two grand including paying a separate contractor for onsite finishing?    I simply don't think that's even possible given the price of materials and minimum wage today.

[2link2]

Thanks for the replies, I understand the reasoning for shop painted but a few things got me looking at site painted & it sounds like Advance or a KM version will give decent look if applied right. Cost is the main concern as we are probably only going to be in the home for about 2 more years. The other is kids are all gone so just the Wife & I if there were still kids at home the durability would be more of a concern.
The cost for shop paint surprised me as it's what I think a a small kitchen 12' of uppers, 24' lowers & a 3' 6" X 7' island.
I'll talk to painter & ask Him about pre cat lacquer. The look were going for will be a dark/deep blue or green satin finish, kinda country kitchen look.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

The selling in 2 years part would push me towards the $2k savings alone unless this is a high dollar house with top tier everything.

I will say that Advance is plenty hard, cleans with a damp rag with no witness marks, and is easily repaired even years later without obvious fading/amber differences. The old oil based enamels ambered so bad that seamless touch ups weren’t possible. Bathrooms and laundry rooms are the worst.

Also, I wouldn’t be scared of site finish. Of course shop finishing has big advantages but a good on site finisher should be taking some proactive steps to help mitigate dust control.
They’ll also have other tricks of the trade to help quality. A question you need to ask is if they’re going to spray your doors in place. Sounds crazy on a WW forum but it happens a lot. Also, as crazy as it sounds, make sure they sand and research what primer they use. Start off on the wrong foot with a crappy primer and it’s all downhill from there. As much as it stink, oil based Kilz and BIN Zinsser white pigmented shellac were my favorites. I’ve yet to use or find a waterbased primer that sealed and sanded up as beautifully as those 2 products…..but don’t expect any painter to always use the products that will give the best results. I’ve seen latex wall paint used on a custom made set of paint grade cabinets in a $600k house a few years back here in KC.

[jteneyck]

If you are thinking about Advance then I recommend you also consider SW's Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel.  It's an oil modified waterborne, too, and sprays just as well, but dries and cures much faster and is at least as durable.  SW's ProClassic WB dries and cures even faster and also is a great option.  

John

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Breakthrough from PPG would be another to consider. I’ve never used it but a very knowledgeable paint rep who finished for many years speaks highly of it. One thing to consider is finishers have their favorite products and knowing how a product behaves is a good feeling.

[fredhargis]

The selling in 2 years part would push me towards the $2k savings alone unless this is a high dollar house with top tier everything.

For sure....I'd go with the savings as well.