▼
Posts: 10,279
Threads: 1
Joined: Nov 2001
Location: Prince Frederick, MD
I didn't realize that I had some tear out in the curl in this oak table top. It's too late to change, as it's glued up.
The tear out is shallow, but must be dealt with. It's gonna be stained with Varathane oil based stain, so I need to take that into consideration when fixing it.
Can any of y'all help out?
Semper fi,
Brad
▼
Posts: 22,329
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Oakdale, MN
03-20-2022, 01:40 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 01:42 PM by packerguy®.)
My initial thought was just fill the grain with a product like aquacote, but then I saw you were going to stain it. I mean you could just fill the grain with a filler that will take stain, depending on how you stain it.
Id soak that area and apply heat from an iron to raise the grain. It might be shallow enough to swell the fibers enough and sand flush. Might have to do it a number of times.
How wide is it. It might just be easiest to run it through belt/drum sander since its a top.....1/32 of an inch wont be missed.
Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)
Posts: 12,674
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
Since i'm guessing this is a piece you're selling, I think I'd rip it off and glue on a new piece. I've never seen a filler that will take stain and not be noticeable. There may be some available, and i just haven't seen it.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 2,430
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Irving, Tx
Filling and stain is a risk I would not take. In the Dallas area there are numerous places that will sand a wide piece. I have used them several times. The best place, Fort Worth Plywood, has a 50" planer/sander combo and they charge the least...$0.50 per sq/ft per pass.
Hope you are able to find a service to help.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
Posts: 1,295
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
03-20-2022, 04:12 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 10:02 PM by Willyou.)
I have had good success filling tear-out like that with clear epoxy. Then sand smooth, stain with gel stain, and finish of choice. Most of the time you can't see it; particularly if you don't know it ahead of time. Be sure to fill with epoxy before applying stain.
Posts: 4,815
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
(03-20-2022, 01:12 PM)®smpr_fi_mac® Wrote: I didn't realize that I had some tear out in the curl in this oak table top. It's too late to change, as it's glued up.
The tear out is shallow, but must be dealt with. It's gonna be stained with Varathane oil based stain, so I need to take that into consideration when fixing it.
Can any of y'all help out?
Card or cabinet scrapers are my go-to solution for tearout. I don't use oak, so I don't know how well it scrapes. Worth a try, if you don't mind a slight hollow in that area.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
▼
Posts: 2,399
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2011
03-20-2022, 09:16 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-20-2022, 09:36 PM by Handplanesandmore.)
The stain could create an impermeable layer between the epoxy and the wood. You must have some scrap oak pieces around to try it first.
I'm not a finish expert, so like Aram, I'd go with a card scraper unless the tear out is severe. Start away from the tear out, and scrape well past the spot in width and in length so you're not creating a noticeable hollow.
Simon
Posts: 1,295
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
(03-20-2022, 09:16 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: The stain could create an impermeable layer between the epoxy and the wood. You must have some scrap oak pieces around to try it first.
I'm not a finish expert, so like Aram, I'd go with a card scraper unless the tear out is severe. Start away from the tear out, and scrape well past the spot in width and in length so you're not creating a noticeable hollow.
Simon Please note that I suggested applying the epoxy first with the gel stain on top after sanding it smooth.
In my opinion, those chip-outs are too deep to plane or scrape away.
Posts: 892
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Trout Creek, Montana
I just had the same type of tear out but on an alder panel. I decided to repair it even though it will not show. I used clear "Stick Fast" CA glue and an accelerator. Never used it before. I just spread it over the tear out and sprayed the accelerator on it. Sanded smooth to the feel. Applied the first coat of Arm R Seal and I can hardly see the repair. If I get the light just right I can see it, but this is the first coat. I am very surprised how well it is turning out.
Treat others as you want to be treated.
“You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” — Mae West.
25- year cancer survivor
Posts: 2,399
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2011
Arm R Seal isn't a stain. I've tried epoxy with osmo and it worked but osmo wasnt stain.
Simon
|