Concrete Mowing Strip Question

[dwg]

I'm putting in about 120 feet of mowing strips in my back yard (about 40 feet each).  The strips are about 5.5" wide and about 6" thick and will sit on about an inch of all purpose gravel (the soil underneath is mostly clay). I am going to use Quickrite Crack Resistant Concrete and my question is should I put rebar in the strips?
Thanks.
Don

[Oldwood2409]

I would add a single #3 rebar in the center with a 18 inch lap splice for each over lapping piece. I assume the Quickrite Crack Resistant Concrete is fiber reinforced.

Greg

[jamesglenn]

I would put a bar down the center as well and be sure to overlap and tie the bars together.

You didn't mention your location, but if it's subject to freeze/thaw and on clay then you should really consider more than 1" of stone. Frost will destroy it quickly.

The Quickcrete crack resistant is more for shrinkage cracking and as a wire mesh replacement in slabs. It will still be subject to freeze/thaw issues and frost heaving.

Of course if it's a warm climate, then please ignore.

[ajkoontz]

Probably not necessary but I would put the rebar in it (with laps as other poster said). I would also saw or trowel in a joint at 10' max. spacing. 10' is the spacing the DOT here specs for curb and gutter (no rebar in curb). I'd actually probably go 8' spacing or less if I were in your shoes. 40' runs it's probably going to crack so the sawed joint is to control where the crack is. You don't need to go super deep - 1/3 depth is recommended but you can go less, you're just making a failure plane that is weaker than the surrounding areas and more likely to crack there. Do the faces if you have access or at least do the top. I'd saw them in with a 4" angle grinder w/in a day of pour- i.e. as soon as you wreck the forms, or just the top at a minimum and go as deep as you can.

[Roly]

Probably not necessary but I would put the rebar in it (with laps as other poster said). I would also saw or trowel in a joint at 10' max. spacing. 10' is the spacing the DOT here specs for curb and gutter (no rebar in curb). I'd actually probably go 8' spacing or less if I were in your shoes. 40' runs it's probably going to crack so the sawed joint is to control where the crack is. You don't need to go super deep - 1/3 depth is recommended but you can go less, you're just making a failure plane that is weaker than the surrounding areas and more likely to crack there. Do the faces if you have access or at least do the top. I'd saw them in with a 4" angle grinder w/in a day of pour- i.e. as soon as you wreck the forms, or just the top at a minimum and go as deep as you can.

+1  A 40' run will crack if not for a reason other than thermal expansion.  It sounds like you will be using bags for the pour so that will be a lot of bags for a 40' run continuous pour.   Roly

[dwg]

Wanted to say thanks for the replies.  I did put #3 rebar in the forms and made the pour with 74 50 pound bags.
Grateful for the suggestions.