How to Re-Finish a Table Top

[Mike 55]

[attachment=41685]Hi all,

I’m hoping to get some advice on how to re-finish my table. I’m by no means an expert on finishing. I purchased this table at an Amish store 5 years ago. It’s made of soft maple. They must have used a water-based poly on it as every time water or even a slight amount of heat gets to it the area becomes white and hazy for hours. It’s also scratched and dull as I hope you can see it in my pic.

My go to finish is General Arm-R-Seal. I need to know how to remove the finish without damaging the wood stain since I do not have any to re-finish it. Is this possible? I just need to do the top.

I have several books on finishing, but none cover this.

Thanks

Mike

[jteneyck]

Not going to happen Mike.  The only two ways I know how to remove finish is to chemically strip it or sand, scrape, or plane it off.  Any of the mechanical options is going to cut into the stain.  If all the stars aligned, you might get lucky and find a stripper that only removes the topcoat and not the stain underneath.   I've never been that lucky.  So it's probably time to ask yourself if you would rather have it look like it now does, figure out how to reproduce the color if removing the finish cuts into the stain, or plan for some alternative finish/color.  

Another possible option is to wait until any white spots have disappeared again, then carefully scuff sand the top with 400 or 600 grit by hand, and then apply a new waterborne finish, one that is more durable than what's on there.  Of course, there may be compatibility issues so you should test any potential new finish on the bottom of the top to make sure it works.  

John

[Mike 55]

Not going to happen Mike.  The only two ways I know how to remove finish is to chemically strip it or sand, scrape, or plane it off.  Any of the mechanical options is going to cut into the stain.  If all the stars aligned, you might get lucky and find a stripper that only removes the topcoat and not the stain underneath.   I've never been that lucky.  So it's probably time to ask yourself if you would rather have it look like it now does, figure out how to reproduce the color if removing the finish cuts into the stain, or plan for some alternative finish/color.  

Another possible option is to wait until any white spots have disappeared again, then carefully scuff sand the top with 400 or 600 grit by hand, and then apply a new waterborne finish, one that is more durable than what's on there.  Of course, there may be compatibility issues so you should test any potential new finish on the bottom of the top to make sure it works.  

John

John,

I was hoping someone would say to try a light sanding and apply a new coat of sealer. Good idea to try it on the bottom of the table first. I will try and call the store again to see if they can find my order and sell me a can of stain in case I sand through the finish. 600 grit sounds like a good starting point. 

Since I think this was a water based poly (because when I used water based 25 years ago I got the same white marks) do you think I will have an issue using Arm-R Seal satin? I use it all the time and you can put anything on it with no water marks. 

Thanks

Mike

[jteneyck]

John,

I was hoping someone would say to try a light sanding and apply a new coat of sealer. Good idea to try it on the bottom of the table first. I will try and call the store again to see if they can find my order and sell me a can of stain in case I sand through the finish. 600 grit sounds like a good starting point. 

Since I think this was a water based poly (because when I used water based 25 years ago I got the same white marks) do you think I will have an issue using Arm-R Seal satin? I use it all the time and you can put anything on it with no water marks. 

Thanks

Mike

If the Amish built it most likely they used nitro cellulose lacquer.  Old school stuff.  It's not very durable and often shows the damage you describe.  Honestly, I'd be very surprised if they used a WB product.  

You should not need any stain if you just scuff sand by hand with 400 or 600 grit.  All you are trying to do is knock off the nubs and put a bit of texture in the finish.  You are not and should not try to remove the finish.  If there are white rings wait until they go away on their own.  You will go down a rabbit hole of no return if you cut through the finish and stain.  

I recommend you spray the table top with a coat of rattle can shellac after scuff sanding.  It will bond to the existing finish, whatever it is, and any most any finish will bond to it, including ARS and waterbornes.  

The very first thing you should do before anything else is clean the tabletop with mineral spirits, several times with fresh paper towels each time, and then with warm water with a little dish soap in it.  That will remove any wax as well as dirt and grime.  

John