Re-saw fence

[MT Woodworker]

A quick down and dirty re-saw fence.
Have some olive wood I am going to re-saw for some frames.
Just used some extra plywood I had around.

[attachment=41706]

[attachment=41705]

[jteneyck]

A quick down and dirty re-saw fence.
Have some olive wood I am going to re-saw for some frames.
Just used some extra plywood I had around.

That looks good.  And if it's rigid enough to withstand a little lateral force you might consider using something like the Bow Products GuidePro to hold the work against the fence.  Just as important, it will keep your hands away from the blade.  Tall resawing substantially increases the risk of an accident.  IMO, anything that keeps your hands away from the blade is a good thing.  I use a shop built featherboard system developed by John Lanciani.  Had the GuidePro been available at that time I might have tried it instead.  The advantage of John's design is it just about guarantees you can't get your hands into the blade while also do a terrific job of holding the work against the fence.  

  

You can find more info. on the featherboard at this link:  Link

John

[rwe2156]

You can find more info. on the featherboard at this link:  Link

John

Does it require repositioning? IOW if you started with a 2" thick board is there enough capability when the board is 1/2" or do you have to move the jig?

[alnandy]

Do you adjust for blade drift?
We prefer a point fence once the resale blade starts drifting

[jteneyck]

Do you adjust for blade drift?
We prefer a point fence once the resale blade starts drifting

No, of course not.  If your blade starts drifting it's telling you it's dull on one side.  Time to change blades.  Any compensation such as adjusting for drift should be a short term action if you don't have a new blade and just have to finish the job, not something you do as common practice.  

John

[alnandy]

No, of course not.  If your blade starts drifting it's telling you it's dull on one side.  Time to change blades.  Any compensation such as adjusting for drift should be a short term action if you don't have a new blade and just have to finish the job, not something you do as common practice.  

John

Blade drift can occur even with a new blade; seen it with brand new Timberwolf blades.   We routinely saw Australian burls with Janka hardnesses well above 2500, as well as m, rosewood, olive etc.  Doesn’t take long for blades to develop drift.  
It’s not so much that the blade is dull as the set has become slightly unequal.  As long as the blade remains sharp we don’t have problems.  We judge sharpness by how easily the blade is cutting.  If we have to “push” the blade, it’s dull and we scrap it.
Draw a line to guide the re-sawing and use a point fence to make on the fly adjustments.  
We avoid carbide blades for this work with super hard woods (Timberwolf techs agree with this).   Best compromise we’ve found is bi-metal.
At $80 per blade, we need to get max use out of the blades.

[jteneyck]

Blade drift can occur even with a new blade; seen it with brand new Timberwolf blades.   We routinely saw Australian burls with Janka hardnesses well above 2500, as well as m, rosewood, olive etc.  Doesn’t take long for blades to develop drift.  
It’s not so much that the blade is dull as the set has become slightly unequal.  As long as the blade remains sharp we don’t have problems.  We judge sharpness by how easily the blade is cutting.  If we have to “push” the blade, it’s dull and we scrap it.
Draw a line to guide the re-sawing and use a point fence to make on the fly adjustments.  
We avoid carbide blades for this work with super hard woods (Timberwolf techs agree with this).   Best compromise we’ve found is bi-metal.
At $80 per blade, we need to get max use out of the blades.

To each his own.  Timberwolf is not exactly the top of the heap for quality and if you run them as recommended, at low tension, they will drift the second the teeth start to dull.  They seem like a poor choice to me for cutting really hard wood.  I'm sure Timberwolf agrees about not using a carbide blade.  The tension Timberwolf recommends for their blades, less than 17ksi, will not yield optimum performance.  

Tension is your friend for cutting straight.  I'll bet a Lennox carbide blade running at 25 - 30ksi would give you much better performance, without drift, and last much longer than what you are now using.  

John

[kurt18947]

To each his own.  Timberwolf is not exactly the top of the heap for quality and if you run them as recommended, at low tension, they will drift the second the teeth start to dull.  They seem like a poor choice to me for cutting really hard wood.  I'm sure Timberwolf agrees about not using a carbide blade.  The tension Timberwolf recommends for their blades, less than 17ksi, will not yield optimum performance.  

Tension is your friend for cutting straight.  I'll bet a Lennox carbide blade running at 25 - 30ksi would give you much better performance, without drift, and last much longer than what you are now using.  

John

I'm curious about the statement about not using carbide blades for hard woods. Is the logic that carbide blades won't last enough longer than for example bi-metal to justify the increased cost?

[rwe2156]

I recently installed a Trimaster blade on my saw for a project requiring a lot of resawing for bent laminations. Main purpose was to be able to skip the re-jointing between cuts and maybe work faster.

Without a lot of explanation, I ended up putting the Infinity rip blade back on because I felt I had to rejoint and it was harder to push material through the carbide blade. Also, I was losing more material to kerf thickness.

Iinitally I thought the drift needed to be tweaked, but I double checked and it was good. I can't help thinking I maybe something about the set up isn't optimal. Maybe I need to check the drift it again.

[jteneyck]

I recently installed a Trimaster blade on my saw for a project requiring a lot of resawing for bent laminations.  Main purpose was to be able to skip the re-jointing between cuts and maybe work faster.

Without a lot of explanation, I ended up putting the Infinity rip blade back on because I felt I had to rejoint and it was harder to push material through the carbide blade.  Also, I was losing more material to kerf thickness.

Iinitally I thought the drift needed to be tweaked, but I double checked and it was good.  I can't help thinking I maybe something about the set up isn't optimal. Maybe I need to check the drift it again.

The Trimaster is not a fast cutting blade.  It wasn't even designed for wood though it does cut wood fine.  If you want to get fast and incredibly smooth cuts get a Woodmaster CT. If your saw can apply 25 ksi on a 1" blade get the 1" x 1.3 tpi one.  If not, get the 3/4" x 2 tpi.  Both blades require power to cut fast, at least 3 hp if you are trying to cut 10" or more.  

John