lowering a ceiling to match another ceiling

[mound]

As part of my kitchen reno, I'm pulling out two load bearing walls that form a corner, opening up into a space which was an addition to the house back around 2005. Anyway, the ceiling in the newer space (2005) is ~6" higher than the ceiling in the existing kitchen (~1990).  To lower this section of ceiling, is it just a matter of adding some more 2by material to the joists and then adding some strapping for new drywall to bring it inline with the old? Do I have to remove all the drywall first or just locate the existing joists?

[KC]

As part of my kitchen reno, I'm pulling out two load bearing walls that form a corner, opening up into a space which was an addition to the house back around 2005. Anyway, the ceiling in the newer space (2005) is ~6" higher than the ceiling in the existing kitchen (~1990).  To lower this section of ceiling, is it just a matter of adding some more 2by material to the joists and then adding some strapping for new drywall to bring it inline with the old? Do I have to remove all the drywall first or just locate the existing joists?

Is it really that important to lower it?  Hard to visualize where they come together, but I think I'd leave it and make a transition 'feature'.  Faux beam maybe.

[mound]

Is it really that important to lower it?  Hard to visualize where they come together, but I think I'd leave it and make a transition 'feature'.  Faux beam maybe.

that's a possibility as well.

[barnowl]

Is it really that important to lower it?  Hard to visualize where they come together, but I think I'd leave it and make a transition 'feature'.  Faux beam maybe.

This.

Absolutely.




Nothing wrong with a stepped ceiling.... it adds a spacious feel.

[Snipe Hunter]

I'd leave it where it is.

[mound]

I'd leave it where it is.

some sort of faux beam may look appropriate (which I will surely look into and may very well work) - failing that,  what would be the process to do so? I'm thinking it could be as simple as using 2x4 nailing them around the perimeter at the desired height laser leveled with the adjacent lower ceiling, and essentially framing a new sub-ceiling at the desired height to which sheetrock could be attached

[MstrCarpenter]

Mound,
If you still want to lower the ceiling to match, here's one way I would do it. This takes any deflection or out of level problems out of the equation.
Drop the existing sheetrock
add 6-8" wide x ??? tall 3/4" ply. gussets to each side of the existing joists at each end and about 4' O.C. between them using const. adhesive and screws (Not drywall screws; they snap.)
Install new 2"x 4" ceiling joists between the gussets at the proper elevation. Secure as above
Cut back the kitchen (lower ceiling) drywall so the new sheetrock can span over new to old framing line
Tape and finish as desired

[mound]

Mound,
If you still want to lower the ceiling to match, here's one way I would do it. This takes any deflection or out of level problems out of the equation.
Drop the existing sheetrock
add 6-8" wide x ??? tall 3/4" ply. gussets to each side of the existing joists at each end and about 4' O.C. between them using const. adhesive and screws (Not drywall screws; they snap.)
Install new 2"x 4" ceiling joists between the gussets at the proper elevation. Secure as above
Cut back the kitchen (lower ceiling) drywall so the new sheetrock can span over new to old framing line
Tape and finish as desired

Interesting idea! Thanks

[mound]

Mound,
If you still want to lower the ceiling to match, here's one way I would do it. This takes any deflection or out of level problems out of the equation.
Drop the existing sheetrock
add 6-8" wide x ??? tall 3/4" ply. gussets to each side of the existing joists at each end and about 4' O.C. between them using const. adhesive and screws (Not drywall screws; they snap.)
Install new 2"x 4" ceiling joists between the gussets at the proper elevation. Secure as above
Cut back the kitchen (lower ceiling) drywall so the new sheetrock can span over new to old framing line
Tape and finish as desired

These joists would simply go all the way up to the wall? Nothing else required perpendicular to to them right at the wall?

[MstrCarpenter]

Mound, Here in New England we usually install strapping (sometimes called "furring"), so with that, you wouldn't need a "ribbon joist". However; regardless of strapping or not, with a ribbon joist at both ends it would be easy to pull a string (an eighth or quarter low) to set the new joists perfectly.