Which band saw blade for this application?

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

I'm about to start building a table that will require scrolling on the band saw very similar to that in the linked video; plans are actually from the same guy. 

I'm running a 14" Delta with riser and a 220V 1.5hp motor. 

I like to buy my blades from Timberwolf.

What size and tooth configuration would you recommend?

https://youtu.be/Gtkth8RWFzY

[EdL]

I always tell T-wolf what I'm doing and they recommend the blade.

Ed

[kurt18947]

I know about nothing about Timberwolf's product line so I'd follow EdLs advice there. I imagine T'wolf will recommend something pretty narrow. I haven't had much luck running narrow blades in traditional guides so bought the appropriate model on this page:

https://carterproducts.com/catalogsearch...Stabilizer

The problem with traditional style guides is that there is very little flat metal in back of the teeth of a narrow blade, e.g. 1/8" for the side guides to bear against. If the teeth run in the side guides it's going to mess up the blade, the guides or both. The Carter guide does away with the side guides. No it won't cut a straight line but that's not what you'll be doing. The other tack would be to replace metal or ceramic side guides with some sort of wood or soft plastic and bury the skinny blade completely in the guides. I've never tried that to know how or if it would work.

[iclark]

+1 on the recommendation for getting the Carter guides (or similar) for the thin blades that T'wolf will recommend.

The Carter demos at woodturning and woodworking shows are _very_ convincing.

[Bob Vaughan]

I'm about to start building a table that will require scrolling on the band saw very similar to that in the linked video; plans are actually from the same guy. 

I'm running a 14" Delta with riser and a 220V 1.5hp motor. 

I like to buy my blades from Timberwolf.

What size and tooth configuration would you recommend?

https://youtu.be/Gtkth8RWFzY

It sure looked to me that he was using a standard 1/4" blade, six tooth skip, maybe a 4 tooth skip.  That's a lot of dust to drag out of the cut.

[jteneyck]

I would make the template and use it to cut out individual parts on the router table or with a handheld router and template bit.  Clean up the sharp corners with the bandsaw, where needed.  I'd also put dowel alignment holes in the template and "drill" those with the router and a plunge bit.  After all the parts are made you can glue them together using dowels in the alignment holes.  This approach allows you to sand all of the parts before gluing them up, at least most of the sanding, such that it's much easier after glue up.  It also eliminates any issues trying to use the bandsaw to cut such thick parts with such a small blade.  

John

[Arlin Eastman]

I would make the template and use it to cut out individual parts on the router table or with a handheld router and template bit.  Clean up the sharp corners with the bandsaw, where needed.  I'd also put dowel alignment holes in the template and "drill" those with the router and a plunge bit.  After all the parts are made you can glue them together using dowels in the alignment holes.  This approach allows you to sand all of the parts before gluing them up, at least most of the sanding, such that it's much easier after glue up.  It also eliminates any issues trying to use the bandsaw to cut such thick parts with such a small blade.  

John

Great idea there.  I also use Twolf all the time and would do a 3/16 skip on it as well

[®smpr_fi_mac®]

John,

Just before reading your response I watched another video by the same guy above. In it, he did exactly what you suggested--reference holes in the template for locating dowels. Something I'm not smart enough to think of on my own, but something I will be doing here!