Runner Replacement on a Sled

[lift mechanic]

I have used this sled for 15+ years. Runners are made of QSWO and have served me well. The sled has a little more movement than I would like. I bought some UHMW strips to replace the worn runners. My thought is to remove one runner at a time, using two sided tape to position the new runner onto the bottom of the sled. Then screw the new runner to the sled. Check for square and repeat. Is there another way to do this? The reference fence is screwed on only so I could reposition it if need be.

[barryvabeach]

Your plan sounds fine to me.

[jteneyck]

I have used this sled for 15+ years. Runners are made of QSWO and have served me well. The sled has a little more movement than I would like. I bought some UHMW strips to replace the worn runners. My thought is to remove one runner at a time, using two sided tape to position the new runner onto the bottom of the sled. Then screw the new runner to the sled. Check for square and repeat. Is there another way to do this? The reference fence is screwed on only so I could reposition it if need be.

Good plan to me.  I'll point out that it's easy to cause the UHMW runners to bulge where you screw into it and that will cause it to bind in the miter slot.  I had this problem with the runners on my horizontal router mortisers until I realized what the problem was.  The solution is to make sure you predrill the hole to a diameter the same size as the screw shank, or even a little more.  Anyway, just beware.  

John

[iclark]

Good plan to me.  I'll point out that it's easy to cause the UHMW runners to bulge where you screw into it and that will cause it to bind in the miter slot.  I had this problem with the runners on my horizontal router mortisers until I realized what the problem was.  The solution is to make sure you predrill the hole to a diameter the same size as the screw shank, or even a little more.  Anyway, just beware.  

John

It sounds like it would also be a good idea to use pan head screws rather than flat head screws.

[jteneyck]

It sounds like it would also be a good idea to use pan head screws rather than flat head screws.

Yes, as long as there is enough thickness to use them.  

Another way to go about this is to double stick tape the runner to the sled and then screw through the top of the sled.  That way only the thread of the screw will engage in the runner, and as long as the pilot hole is large enough there will be no tendency for the runner to flare.   

John

[lift mechanic]

I like the idea of drilling through the top of the sled into the UHMW and using a machine screw. I have never tried to tap UHMW, I would use something around 1/4 - 20.

[jteneyck]

I like the idea of drilling through the top of the sled into the UHMW and using a machine screw. I have never tried to tap UHMW, I would use something around 1/4 - 20.

I didn't mean to suggest you use a machine screw.  A flat head wood screw will work fine.

[museumguy]

What I use is acrylic. I drill from the top and tap for a 6-32 fh machine screw. I suspect that you can do similar with UHMW

[Hank Knight]

I trimmed the bulges off my UHMW runners with a shoulder plane. Worked fine.

[MstrCarpenter]

Years ago I bought a 10' length of 3/8" x 3/4" steel bar stock for less than $20. With today's prices it's probably more like $35. I've drilled thru the sled to mark holes to be drilled and tapped, and also used pointed set-screws in tapped holes to mark the bottom of other sleds. If the holes aren't perfect, I swap the flat head machine screw to a countersunk pan head. I've also added construction adhesive for a more permanent attachment. (What can I say? I'm a carpenter, it's what I had.) It will damage the sled when removed but I can scrape the wood and glue from the steel for the next use.