Posts: 1,407
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Joined: Jun 2003
What are you going to make the top of? Melamine is good, HPL over MDF or ply a better option. I've made several and I think 2 layers is best, and laminate both sides.
Size is the next issue. Mine is 30x40.
Posts: 16,600
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Joined: Oct 1999
FWIW, and IMO you will never regret purchasing a router lift. I've had one for many years and am thankful I spent the money every time I use it.
Doug
"A vote is not a valentine. You aren't professing your love for the candidate. It's a chess move for the world you want to live in."
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My router table started as a quick, no frills, use what was on hand, type; nothing more than a piece of 3/8" aluminum plate about 30" square with a 4" hole in the middle. The router was just bolted on. The fence was/is just a red oak 2x4 with a notch for the bit, clamped where needed. I've made several 3/8" thick inserts that just sit on the router base with a press fit in the 4" hole. (The 4" opening is large enough for my panel raising bits.) For many years I just mounted the plate to the end of my bench when needed. It's been to job sites plenty too. Usually found mounted to a deck rail with an additional leg. Not at all uncommon to see it in the truck or under a bench with the fence and router still attached.
It's evolved into a more stationary tool by utilizing the bottom half of a 4 drawer file cabinet. I like the hvy. duty full extension drawers. There's a sliding shelf in one of them holding the more frequently used bits.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
Posts: 4,618
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Joined: Dec 2001
Location: Dishman, WA
If you are after simple then you need to check out The Router Workshop. It was on our local PBS station 20 years ago?? It was a father son duo that did some pretty amazing stuff with a router mounted in a very basic table and a stick C-clamped to the table for a guide. When I look the store bought ones that you can buy for hundreds of dollars I always say to myself but why do you need all that? The dad and his kid had a simple table, a stick, and 2 C-clamps. My goal is to build Norms deluxe router table some day. I actually have the top all built and mounted on a somewhat crude stand, I just need to build the cabinet.
Dave
"Amateur Putzing in Shop."
Northern Wood on Norm 5/07
"Dave's shop is so small you have to go outside to turn around"
Big Dave on my old shop
So I built a new shop. (Picasa went away so did the link to the pictures)
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Location: Central America
I liked the router tables we used at Palomar College. The tops were hinged in the back so you could lift the front of the table up (like a car hood) and there was a stick to keep it propped up while you changed the bit. You didn't have to bend or squat to get a good look.
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Well we stock some 2 side HPL laminated 3cm PB panels, being balanced and thick they should make a decent stable top. Guess I need to decide between a lift and just a plate.
Looking to possibly do a decent amount of work on some 8-9' full cherry boads so will make a decent size table.
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Joined: Jul 2006
I'm really tempted to get one of these Sam's Club tables and just drop the coin on a Jessem lift. I need to joint about 500' of 8-9' long cherry and remember really hating joining full boards on my 6" Jet. The 6' table length and being able to lay flat instead of on edge would sure be easier. I can CNC some 6' offset fences at work. Would also double as a secondary bench, my primary is a homemade solid oak bench with 3" top and legs.
https://www.samsclub.com/p/ultrahd-72-in...od22651720
https://youtu.be/e_CKvQugG3g
JessEm 02310 Rout-R-Lift II Router Lift and 02030 10-Piece Insert Ring Kit with Caddy Bundle (2 Items) (0231002030)
https://a.co/d/7GloiCj