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I have used a steb center also called crown drive as a safe drive. I have used this for turning inside out ornaments.
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/107...ive-Center.
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The Robust cup center that I use is not spring loaded and works great. In use, seems like the spring would not be relevant once the cup is seated. Only advantage I can think of is in positioning the work piece initially, but I could be wrong. I used Stebs for several years, but rarely since getting my first cup center. Very rarely, like in I should sell (but won’t…just because!!)
Earl
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01-04-2023, 03:33 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-04-2023, 03:34 PM by crokett™.)
I have a steb center. I may try it also. It is not my favorite to use but I guess it reinforces good turning technique since if you are too heavy handed or your tool is dull it slips.
. I use it mostly for smaller diameter spindles.
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01-04-2023, 04:20 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-04-2023, 04:24 PM by SceneryMaker.)
I have 2 different cup centers that I use as safety drive centers when starting a newbie out. Neither one has a spring point in it. Either one would work nicely to help find the best axis for turning.
A novice can jam a gouge into the work and try to promote a catch but they just slip. These centers are a great way to teach tool control, especially if you don't clamp the tailstock down to war emergency squeeze.
We do segmented turning, not because it is easy, but because it is hard.
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I don't see how one of these spur-type 'safe drivers' helps with an out of round bowl blank. My gut says a typical sized spur drive like a Stebcenter is going to slip in a heavy, green, out of flat surface bowl blank. That's the opposite of a safety feature in my book (when the spur drive chews enough of a hole to allow the blank to slip).
What you need (I think) is a system that allows you to properly balance the bowl blank, then securely drive it that balanced state.
I'm sure some oversized spur drives would work, like the Texas Spur - but the price? Ouch.
https://bestwoodtools.stores.yahoo.net/tespdrce1.html
I use a somewhat crude DIY solution consisting of a 5" faceplate threaded for 5/16" x 2" bolts. The bolts are sharpened on the ends so I can drive them deep into the blank.
I balance the blank using trial and error. I don't set the bolts deep until I'm satisfied the blank is balanced.
Here's the commercial version. I think mine is better because it doesn't rely on a Morse taper, it screws onto the spindle.
https://woodturningtoolstore.com/product...drive-2-5/
Largest blanks I've use mine with were 20" and probably 50-60#. (Note I always turn with the tailstock in place until the piece is almost fully roughed out).
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