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Possibly a brush problem?
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Bad batch of switches is more likely in this instance.
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I had a very similar problem on a 20+ year old Bosh Angle Grinder. It was the switch. Makita has an excellent service center in the area, so I'm spoiled: drop off the tool, pick it up a few days later. Twice, they fixed the problem before I left and did not charge me.
Not helpful, but the DeWalt small router, DW611 I think, had some bad switches when they hit the market.
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(03-26-2023, 08:01 AM)Johnny Currado Wrote: ...... both this one and the one I returned when I am cutting the saw will fire up for a few seconds then stop and power down..
The Makita saw you're using has some fancy electronics that advertise "current limiting abilities to protect the saw". Since you've tried two saws and both have the same symptoms, I would check the incoming electrical power for problems.
Are you plugging into a receptacle that's far from the main electrical panel? Are you in an outbuilding fed by a long underground wire? Are you using a small gauge extension cord?
Does your home/shop have any kind of whole-house surge protection power conditioner?
Can you take the saw to a friends house and see what happens?
Of course, it could simply be that you got two defective saws in a row.
Mike
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04-16-2023, 08:16 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-24-2023, 07:11 AM by Cabinet Monkey.)
Quote:Great questions and no this was used at same house in the garage running off of my festool vacuum outlet with the festool vacuum. I have a feeling they are having issues on this model run.Ohio Mike Wrote: [url=https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?pid=8135822#pid8135822][/url]
That little tidbit adds a a whole new set of things to consider. Did you not think that might have been relevant ?
The festool CT's use fancy electronics to monitor / regulate / switch the voltage~current to that onboard receptacle. And while it should work fine , you never know in today's world of computers about cross compatibility. The CT's limit the provided supply to the accessory (saw in this case) depending on the the available electrical supply from the house AND how much vacuum is selected. More vacuum, less juice is made available to the acc. receptacle.
You also don't say whether your supply is 20a or 15a and how far that receptacle is from the panel. You could easily experience what you have if: you're far from the panel, have a 15a circuit, have the vac set to max suction, the saw set to fastest setting, -or- a combination of those factors. Another thing you don't mention is what you're cutting (we'll assume you're using the stock 48t blade).
That'll be fine with 3/4" ply but will start to strain on MDF. Thicker material will be more taxing. And if you were attempting to rip a 2x4 with that blade, you could easily stall out your saw/vac combo.
Do as iclark and Mike suggest and use the saw without the vac on a 20a circuit to make the same cuts in the same material as before. Report back to us with your findings. At this point , I’m now leaning towards operator error over Makita producing a bad batch of saws.
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I have that same saw have been using it for a few weeks now. What I notice is that if I shift my body position and take pressure off the trigger the saw will spool all the way down before powering back up, even though I get back in the trigger quickly. It is the soft start feature, I have Dewalt router with soft start that does the same. I'd check operator headspace and timing to be certain
