Non-yellowing WB finish for dining table?

[shoottmx]

Building a dining table out of spalted maple for LOML. She's in love with the spalted look and wants a clear non-yellowing finish that is durable for every day use. We're easy on our furniture and don't have to be concerned with kids/pets, etc. That said we'd like a durable, easy to maintain finish.

Fortunately there's no rush to complete the project so I have plenty of time for drying and curing. Will have to apply with a brush. Shop temp is low 70's with humidity 45-50%. The maple has been in my shop for 6 years.

The Minwax Oil Modified WB poly sounds good but some say it turns amber so that is a no-no. There are several General Finishes WB polys--but not sure which would be the best for a dining table. Curious which you all prefer?

Thanks,  Gary

[Blaine]

I have used General Finishes products for decades. I've not used their Enduro clear water based poly, but it's predecessor is what I used on trim and flooring thresholds 25 years ago and it's held up well. It should bring out some of the grain, but I'm not sure how much.
If you want the grain to stand out a bit more on the table, you can use a clear shellac. I've had good luck with with Zinsser Seal Coat.

[Willyou]

As far as I know, water based polys are known for being water clear and non-yellowing. There might be some exceptions. I have some experience with the Varathane brand and have had good results. It is easy to apply by either brush or spray. It levels well and dries fast enough to get 3 coats on in a day.

[jteneyck]

GF's High Performance is probably your best bet from their WB products as it can be brushed.  EnduroVar also can be brushed but it has a decidedly amber hue.  The other Enduro products all are spray only.  

MinWax Oil Modified Poly is surprisingly clear.  I made this red oak and Sapele tabletop for a friend who finished it by brush with that MinWax product.  As you can see, it's pretty colorless and looks like it was sprayed on.  It's also very durable after it cures for a few weeks.  




Another option is Rubio Monocoat 2C plus catalyst.  Stupid simple to apply, very, very durable, and a breeze to repair if ever needed.  No lie.  Seems outrageously expensive but it goes a long way and you only need one coat, hence the name.  It comes in 51 colors.  Color Chart

I did this walnut veneer and Baltic birch cabinet for a guy and used RM 2C - Pure on it.  Not much color change.  The only downside is only comes in satin (er dull) sheen, but you can apply their maintenance oil to increase the sheen to maybe satin.  



John

[Mike L B]

General Finishes Enduro Var has a tint in it. Their High Performance is clear.
The Enduro Var goes on fine with a brush and dries in 4 hours or so. I haven't tried the High Performance.

[shoottmx]

Blaine
Hadn't thought about a seal coat of shellac. I'd like to pop the grain as much as possible, will pick up a can and do a test piece.

Willyou
I did a test piece with Varathane that I had for another project. It passed the LOML test, wondering which finish is the most durable? I have plenty of time to do multiple coats and wait for it to cure.

Mike L B
I think I'll pick up a can of High Performance to do a test piece.

John
Always appreciate your info. I'll take a look at the Rubio. A one coat finish is opposite of what I would expect for a finish to be durable enough for an every day use table.

Thanks! The woodnet brain trust always provides great information. Well almost always


Gary

[fredhargis]

Gary, keep in mind that even with a clear finish the table may shift color somewhat. The maple will likely itself will shift over time.

[shoottmx]

Gary, keep in mind that even with a clear finish the table may shift color somewhat. The maple will likely itself will shift over time.

Thanks Fred, I'm aware that wil likely happen as this will be exposed to morning sunlight. However, it will be a slow process and she hopefully won't notice.


Gary

[Willyou]

Also keep in mind; as you said that you want a non-yellowing finish, most shellac will have some color in it. You may want to use a blond shellac. Having said that, I don't know to what degree blond shellac is effected by UV light.

[jteneyck]

Also keep in mind; as you said that you want a non-yellowing finish, most shellac will have some color in it. You may want to use a blond shellac. Having said that, I don't know to what degree blond shellac is effected by UV light.

You want to use dewaxed shellac under waterborne finishes.  The Blond or whatever is in Zinsser's can at the BORG has wax in it, which could inhibit bonding of the WB topcoat.  The only products they offer that are wax free are Sealcoat and rattle can shellac.  Sealcoat will impart a slightly red tint to most woods.  That often is desirable, but maybe not.  

John