Attaching Base Cabinets to CinderBlocks?

[David Stone]

I’m ready to attach the base cabinets for my miter station. I’ve got some 3” Tapcons. Is this the proper way to go about it?
Use a regular drill bit to go through the ply nailer strip; then use the Tapcon masonry bit and a hammer drill to make the pilot hole in the cinder block. A hammer drill to drive in the Tapcons.

Is the a trick to drilling the pilot hole with it getting to wide? Last time I drilled into cinder block, the vibration from the hammer drill caused the bit to wobble a bit,and a bunch of the pilot holes were too wide for the Tapcons to bite. (Or maybe I did something else wrong?)

Also, should I try to find the the solid part of the cinder block so I not drilling into the void? Or is the wall of the cinder block strong enough.

Thanks in advance.

[Bill Holt]

I've used Tapcons for several years, but never in cinderblock.  I think hitting the void is asking for trouble.  I'm not recommending this...but we have had good luck using drywall screws in cinderblock walls at church.  It was built in the sixties.  On a couple occasions, the screw broke.

If the hole is too loose for the Tapcon screws, toothpicks usually help.

[Cabinet Monkey]

In Europe they use plastic sleeves and reg. steel screws

[David Stone]

I’ve considered that, but now that I’ve got everything in place, I don’t want to start moving the cabinets if I don’t have to.

[Willyou]

Use your masonry bit in a regular drill, not a hammer drill. Drill your hole into a web, not the void.

[Stwood_]

Use your masonry bit in a regular drill, not a hammer drill. Drill your hole into a web, not the void.

This

[KyleD]

If the hole is stripped out then just take a small length of copper wire from a piece of Romez 12 or 14 gauge and pack the hole. If you are at a construction site look around the ground where the electricians have been for all the short lengths you need for this.

[MstrCarpenter]

I've mentioned this before, but I will not use Tapcons. What I learned (MacGyver-ized) when they stripped out, was if I slid a few plastic coffee stirrers into the hole the Tapcons would then hold. I quickly evolved on to zip-ties and ceramic coated deck screws. Faster, easier, and without formal testing; I think the ceramic will last longer than blue paint.

B.T.W. Copper wire in the hole works too, it will also hold nails. A good application is through P.T. sub-shoes for partitions on concrete where most of the force would be in shear.

[David Stone]

Thanks everyone.
The Tapcons seem to be pretty secure.
(I did find that the masonry bit wouldn’t cut unless I used the hammer drill.)

[bobotex]

Purchase metal french cleat strips for hanging cabinets 18" is pretty standard. Locate an open cmu cell.  Mark line of cleat elevation, and draw cabinet box layout lines on block.  Mount cleat With a toggle bolt at 16" o.c. to open cells. You will have an open cell every 8" I have done this my whole career and never had one fail. Tapcons and plastic anchors fail too often if the block is hollow. You may have a horizontal bond beam every 4 ft or 8ft above f.f. some areas of the country you will have every other cell filled vertically with concrete and a rebar just like a stud wall. This is found and done in areas usually prone to little things like hurricanes. lol. You can always remount a loose cabinet to an open cell thru the inside cleat of the cabinet box located at the top and bottom of most cabinet boxes if needed with a 1/4" toggle bolt and washer.
Good Luck,
Robert


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