Way to cut bead profile manually on cabinet face frame

[TBroussard]

Looking for a suggestion on how to manually cut a bead profile on cabinet face frame that is already installed.  I am pulling overlay doors off and keeping carcasses in place so not to disturb granite.  I don't see an easy way to remove existing face frames without causing damage to carcasses, will build new doors installed as inset doors.  I would like to add the beading detail that would help define the openings a bit more.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[Stwood_]

Do you have access to any Stanley beading tools for a 45?
I've used them by hand on face trim. Easier on the hands if you make a wooden holder.
Probably a jillion of them can be had used on Ebay.

[attachment=49406]

Also could take a trim router with a beading bit and run the router in the inside of the stiles. You would have to stop at certain points though as the router won't run down the stile the full length.

There are also beading tools to be bought. Usually included are blanks that you can grind/file your own profile.


https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+bea...efox-b-1-d

[TBroussard]

Do you have access to any Stanley beading tools for a 45?
I've used them by hand on face trim. Easier on the hands if you make a wooden holder.
Probably a jillion of them can be had used on Ebay.



Also could take a trim router with a beading bit and run the router in the inside of the stiles. You would have to stop at certain points though as the router won't run down the stile the full length.

There are also beading tools to be bought. Usually included are blanks that you can grind/file your own profile.


https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+bea...efox-b-1-d

Appreciate the reply and search link.  

The Veritas beading tool is probably the route that I will need to go.  I was thinking of a trim router, but it would be such a weird angle with very little support for base that I thought it would make a mess of things. Just noticed that it is no longer available.

[Philip1231]

Applied molding: form a bead on stock of appropriate thickness and then rip it to form beaded molding: rip flush or leave a reveal: your choice. Then glue/pin nail in place with mitered corners.

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[TBroussard]

Applied molding: form a bead on stock of appropriate thickness and then rip it to form beaded molding: rip flush or leave a reveal: your choice. Then glue/pin nail in place with mitered corners.

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Thanks,

But, the bead needs to be cut into the face frame not the actual doors, so I can't add a molding because I am trying to keep the openings the same size

[Philip1231]

Thanks,

But, the bead needs to be cut into the face frame not the actual doors, so I can't add a molding because I am trying to keep the openings the same size

Could you apply the bead to the inside of the face frame and then trim all four sides of the door to fit?

[TBroussard]

Could you apply the bead to the inside of the face frame and then trim all four sides of the door to fit?

I could but I am already loosing a lot of space going from overlay to inset doors.  Face frame will be 3 inches wide, when really should be half of that, so if i add bead to inside it makes it even wider.

[fredhargis]

The applied moulding is worth considering, it would be fairly easy to do...or put the bead on your new doors.

[TBroussard]

Turns out Lee  Valley does still sell something similar to the Veritas model, they call it a cast scratch Stock with different types of insert cutters.  I will probably give that a try to see if it works.  Thanks again for the suggestions

[jteneyck]

For small amounts, and in difficult places, a scratch stick is hard to beat.  Here's a piece of molding I needed to match.



I made a simple scratch stick to match:



And went to work:



Not as fast as a router, but still didn't take long:



John