#11
It has taken my a while but all I have left to do to finish my router table is to make two drawers and put on drawer facing. It has been to cold in my unheated shop to work since the middle of November and it it still only takes about 15 minutes for my fingers to start hurting as of today, but it won't be long now. It has been frustrated not being able to take pictures but today my daughter came over and got me up and running so here are a few pictures.

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Some things that need to be changed are:

The fence needs to be moved back to allow more room behind the cutter when all the way back. The Jessem wheels do not work with this fence system. Because the fulcrum point to fare away from the actual fence. Because of the distance and play in the linear bearings, the fence lifts up and I lost the down ward pressure.  I think a person with an Incra system will have the same problem. Maybe if I lift up on the fence before setting the roller height it will help I will see when it warms up. Or possibly a way to clamp down. 

I love MDF inserts on the fence I have some stick on plastic to help the wood to slide past easier. What I really like is I can make a zero clearance fence easily. and the MDF doesn't come near dulling any cutter. Zero clearance inserts really show there worth when using door and rail cutters as well as slot cutting bits. It is easy to remove the MDF cut off the end and make a new zero clearance insert with a different cutter. I made extras.

I already posted pictures of the actual machining of the cast iron top a year or so ago if you would like to see them do a search.  

Thanks for looking.

Tom
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#12
Thats looking good!
I ended up re-doing mine, the first attempt didn't make me happy. Lots of trial and error.

Ed
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#13
The biggest mistake I made with my router table was getting a fine-adjust manual lift instead of a coarse one.  The number of rotations needed to get access to the collet makes changing bits a real PITA, especially when you need to switch back and forth a bunch.

I thought the fine-adjust would help with precision, but I have never had an occasion where I needed an adjustment so tight that it would have been difficult with 2x the "torque".
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#14
(02-27-2024, 07:01 PM)Ridgeway Wrote: The biggest mistake I made with my router table was getting a fine-adjust manual lift instead of a coarse one.  The number of rotations needed to get access to the collet makes changing bits a real PITA, especially when you need to switch back and forth a bunch.

I thought the fine-adjust would help with precision, but I have never had an occasion where I needed an adjustment so tight that it would have been difficult with 2x the "torque".

I am sorry to hear about your big mistake.  I point it out only so that perhaps others will learn from your, as you call it a mistake. Most lifts are operated with a hex key of some for. Why not get another key of the same size and make it so it can fit in an electric drill for quicker adjustments.

For others, my lift is from Woodpeckers and I purchased from here in the S@S section of this forum several years ago. I have purchased a lot of things from the forum over time. I am posting pictures of it so you will know what you are looking at is you come a crossed one. Bear in mind it is for a 3 1/4 HP router.

   

   

   

Tom
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#15
Tom you really know how to make a guy envious!  The fence adjustment is to die for.  Nice work as always.

Lonnie
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#16
Looking good Tom. I got tired of cranking my lift, so cordless drill and hex bit took care of that.
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where I am with my build


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