Stanley #8 Blades & Tote Question

[ajkoontz]

I decided that this summer I want to get my #8 into serviceable condition. As found I have a good- body, frog, and front knob. I have a serviceable lever cap and chip breaker, not original to this plane- and probably incorrect type. I will need to buy a blade and buy or make a rear tote. Never made a tote but I think I could do it if it came to that. The plane does have a partial rear tote so possibly could be repaired. My main question is about the blade. I think I like the idea of buying a hock blade/ chip breaker set for this plane. Best I can tell, these go for ~$90 for the set. Also, best I can tell a vintage blade is going to run approx. same cost as a Hock replacement. I'm fairly confident I can find a donor tote, steal one off of one of my collection, or just buy one on-line. Obviously I'm not worried about having a type correct collectable plane, I just want to have a solid user. And if I'm being honest it will probably not see that much use- but I don't have a working #8 and I want one. Questions-

- Are there any sources for Hock that are cheaper/ better than another? I'll probably just go with Lee Valley unless I'm missing something.
- Is my math more or less correct, that a Stanley blade for #8 would go for around $40-$50 for anything worth having on a plane.
- Is there another new blade manufacturer that I should be looking at? I've used Hock blades in other planes so I'm already a fan/ sold on the idea but maybe for a big #8 it might be different?
- Is it worth it to get the Hock chip breaker if I already have a Stanley? Like I said, I've used Hock blades but never bought the Hock chip breaker so maybe the premium on the chip breaker on a #8 is not worth it??

[C. in Indy]

I'm amazed nobody is replying 


For a #8, I don't have one.   I did have a great time a few years back finding one at a flea market and flipping it -- probably the only time I really turned a profit on flipping stuff.    But anyway, my sense on the big planes (# 6,  # 7,  # 8), is that they have a lot of mass and stability inherently, and for the usual run of jobs they don't need upgrading necessarily.   But, if you don't already have a blade, then the Hock or a Veritas PMV blade would be great.   

It's been a few years, but I think the idea was that for chip breakers, the Hock was initially offered more as a blade stiffener than as a (high angle) chipbreaker.   The "renaissance" of the chipbreaker function (which mickley never forgot, etc., etc.) set-up made the original chipbreakers more attractive again.

[ajkoontz]

I'm amazed nobody is replying 


For a #8, I don't have one.   I did have a great time a few years back finding one at a flea market and flipping it -- probably the only time I really turned a profit on flipping stuff.    But anyway, my sense on the big planes (# 6,  # 7,  # 8), is that they have a lot of mass and stability inherently, and for the usual run of jobs they don't need upgrading necessarily.   But, if you don't already have a blade, then the Hock or a Veritas PMV blade would be great.   

It's been a few years, but I think the idea was that for chip breakers, the Hock was initially offered more as a blade stiffener than as a (high angle) chipbreaker.   The "renaissance" of the chipbreaker function (which mickley never forgot, etc., etc.) set-up made the original chipbreakers more attractive again.

Yeah, not a lot of traffic on this post huh? I see you're an Indy guy. I live just south of Indy (Franklin) so we're probably competing over the same tools at flea markets and such.

I went to the MWTCA spring meet this year and didn't see a single #8 blade for sale. I know they're out there but best I can tell I'm maybe going to save $10 over a Hock and at that point I'd rather have a Hock for a user I think. I'll probably try to run it with the chipbreaker I have and if I don't like it I can buy a Hock chipbreaker later.

[Admiral]

I've always been happy with Hock irons.  I also think that if your existing chipbreaker is in good condition, and you properly mate it with the iron, it will be just fine.  I have a #5 and #6 with Hock irons and their original chipbreakers and they work just dandy.  Only thing is if the existing breaker is deformed or has lost its spring (which can be fixed but its more of an art than a science), then I'd think about getting a new, matching one with the Hock.

[tablesawtom]

I agree with Admiral. I did a hock on my K8 and love it. I also did a new Chip Breaker. My old one had some pitting and I think they just look better together. I think that the better they look the more you are apt to use it. I do not think that the 01 hock blades will stay as sharp as long as the PMV=11 but they sharpen a lot easier. 

Tom

[amtc]

I agree with Admiral. I did a hock on my K8 and love it. I also did a new Chip Breaker. My old one had some pitting and I think they just look better together. I think that the better they look the more you are apt to use it. I do not think that the 01 hock blades will stay as sharp as long as the PMV=11 but they sharpen a lot easier. 

Tom

Before I bought my LN #8 I had a flat side 608 bedrock and I used both Clifton and LV PM11 blades. They both worked great. If I remember right the Clifton was a little thicker and I had to mess with it a little to get it to work.

[AHill]

Another endorsement for Hock. Even though it's not an exotic steel, it holds an edge a very long time. If you also get the Hock chip breaker, you may need to file the mouth open a bit, since the combo blade and chip breaker are thicker than the standard Stanley set.

[Mike Brady]

Is a No. 8 tote different from a No. 6 or 7? I have made totes, but they are not "easy" to make and require a long bit for the bore, and a rounded rasp for shaping. Personally I would recommend just buying one new or used.

[EricU]

I really want to try a Lake Erie Toolworks blade. But if you're looking for cheap, that ain't it. And they don't sell chipbreakers.

I have avoided Hock blades because of the looks. Which is weird, I know. I think everyone sells them for the same price, plane blades seem to be scarce this time of year. I have been happy with my Veritas blades, but the common sizes aren't due in until fall.

I would buy a tote. They are cheap enough and I like rosewood.

[Timberwolf]

I really want to try a Lake Erie Toolworks blade. But if you're looking for cheap, that ain't it. And they don't sell chipbreakers.

I have avoided Hock blades because of the looks. Which is weird, I know. I think everyone sells them for the same price, plane blades seem to be scarce this time of year. I have been happy with my Veritas blades, but the common sizes aren't due in until fall.

I would buy a tote.  They are cheap enough and I like rosewood.

.............
LIL...My two cents
Chip breakers are just a spring..ALL springs will "stack" and lose strength if they are left under compression indefinitely..Compression can be restored if the breaker is clamped in a bench vise and, using a large adjustable wrench, pull it slightly to retension it. { a hammer can also be used if done carefully}.Use a smooth file to make sure the bottom edge is all that is touching the iron..this will prevent the shavings from being able to "choke" between the blade and the breaker. They also help prevent chattering if they have sufficient tensioning...Some of the really old planes I have seen have breakers that exert almost zero force because they have stacked.