04-17-2024, 07:48 PM
I needed to make some off angle parts the other day. That is not as easy with a RAS as it is with a CMS since the RAS only has detents at 90 and 45 degrees. Yes, the angle gage I made helps for standard angles, but for other angles it's suck and seek. That started me thinking about a better way. Around the same time, I watched a YouTube guy demonstrate the Duby Sled. Eureka, I can adapt that idea to the RAS. And here it is:
It's just about exactly the size of two Duby sleds, side by side, 38" wide by 27" deep with 30" fences. It uses the same pivot system concept that I use on my shooting boards, which keeps the edge of the fence exactly at the edge of the blade no matter the angle. The miter table is held in place by a cleat on the bottom at the back that goes into the space normally occupied by the fence in the normal setup. It slides in and out easily.
You can cut any angle up to 50 degrees w/o moving the saw arm and the fences never need to be replaced because the saw always travels the same path. For 90 degree cuts, leave both fences in place. Angled trim cuts also can be made with both fences in place by rotating one fence. For angled cutoffs, however, one fence needs to be removed. This is easily done by removing the holding knobs and lifting the fence off.
The above photo also shows the stops behind both fences, which are used to calibrate the fences to exactly 0 degrees.
There is an angle scale on both sides of the table for setting the fence at the correct angle. I put lines on it for 4 sided (45 deg) to 20 sided (10 deg) frames, plus a couple of other angles.
This has nothing to do with the miter table, but cut quality of this saw/blade is outstanding.
The miter sled is going to make it much easier to produce high quality miter cuts for angles besides 45 degrees. Not having to swivel the saw arm assures calibration remains unaffected. Now I need to add a length stop system.
John
It's just about exactly the size of two Duby sleds, side by side, 38" wide by 27" deep with 30" fences. It uses the same pivot system concept that I use on my shooting boards, which keeps the edge of the fence exactly at the edge of the blade no matter the angle. The miter table is held in place by a cleat on the bottom at the back that goes into the space normally occupied by the fence in the normal setup. It slides in and out easily.
You can cut any angle up to 50 degrees w/o moving the saw arm and the fences never need to be replaced because the saw always travels the same path. For 90 degree cuts, leave both fences in place. Angled trim cuts also can be made with both fences in place by rotating one fence. For angled cutoffs, however, one fence needs to be removed. This is easily done by removing the holding knobs and lifting the fence off.
The above photo also shows the stops behind both fences, which are used to calibrate the fences to exactly 0 degrees.
There is an angle scale on both sides of the table for setting the fence at the correct angle. I put lines on it for 4 sided (45 deg) to 20 sided (10 deg) frames, plus a couple of other angles.
This has nothing to do with the miter table, but cut quality of this saw/blade is outstanding.
The miter sled is going to make it much easier to produce high quality miter cuts for angles besides 45 degrees. Not having to swivel the saw arm assures calibration remains unaffected. Now I need to add a length stop system.
John