Sharpening

[Tapper]

In the past I've taken the "make do" method when it comes to sharpening chisels and plane irons. I have some oil stones and finally bought a Worksharp 3000 a few years ago. It seems to do OK for chisels but plane irons, not so much, at least for me. Recently a project came up that will require some fairly precise hand plane work and my favorites are in need of help.

I've looked into waterstones but for some reason I haven't warmed up to the idea. I have one of those pedestrian honing jigs that seems to work OK but I'm thinking about springing for a Veritas Mk.II honing guide; seems to get high marks in reviews.

Would appreciate methods you use and like.

Doug

[tablesawtom]

I use the Veritas sharpening system and I love it. I use a 1000 grit diamond stone to put on a micro bevel followed by a 4000-6000 Waterstone I push and pull on the diamond stone and then about ten pulls each on the other 2 grits lap the flat on the 6000 grit only and go to work. Expensive to say the least,  but it works.  

I will post pictures of what and how I do it tomorrow. or Monday.

Tom

[Tapper]

I use the Veritas sharpening system and I love it. I use a 1000 grit diamond stone to put on a micro bevel followed by a 4000-6000 Waterstone I push and pull on the diamond stone and then about ten pulls each on the other 2 grits lap the flat on the 6000 grit only and go to work. Expensive to say the least,  but it works.  

I will post pictures of what and how I do it tomorrow. or Monday.

Tom

What grit stone do you use to cut the primary bevel?

Thanks Tom - will look forward to the pics!

Doug

[Steve Hamlin]

I do little and often, so unless repairing just use lilywhite and surgical black and nature's guide (don't use a charged strop, preferring to lighten strokes on the black, or using a french chalked strop to worry a heavy wire edge) - easily use anything as a microtome on fingerprints with that set up.
Ab initio, I had Kell and Veritas guides, neither of which were used for long (was using water stones at the time.) Found the Kell good as training wheels, with the vice point being so low. The Veritas was a better all rounder, just prone to raising up with a catch if got sloppy with technique (quite high vice point)

[MarkWells]

The honing guide I use the most often is just a block of wood:  https://www.mwells.org/woodworking/sharp...oning-jig/   It's theoretically possible to use a stone, but it works best with glass sheets and 3M Microabrasive sheets.

I need to update those web pages, but for grinding now I use 80 grit Mirka Gold and the Lie-Nielsen side clamping guide.  It's fast and produces a very accurate primary bevel which makes everything else go faster.  The Lie-Nielsen guide is great, but honestly the $15 versions also work fine.

I have used the Kell with both big and small wheels.  I find it kind of cumbersome to hold, but it's the only thing that clamps really narrow chisels or a mortise chisel well.

I have not tried the Mk. II, but I much prefer guides that  self-register because getting the angle off, even very slightly, results in a lot more metal removal than necessary.

Mark

[Timberwolf]

In the past I've taken the "make do" method when it comes to sharpening chisels and plane irons. I have some oil stones and finally bought a Worksharp 3000 a few years ago. It seems to do OK for chisels but plane irons, not so much, at least for me. Recently a project came up that will require some fairly precise hand plane work and my favorites are in need of help.

I've looked into waterstones but for some reason I haven't warmed up to the idea. I have one of those pedestrian honing jigs that seems to work OK but I'm thinking about springing for a Veritas Mk.II honing guide; seems to get high marks in reviews.

Would appreciate methods you use and like.

Doug

..................
Doug, can you describe the problem you're having with your present methods? Are you having trouble getting the edge as sharp as possible? Or are you having trouble getting the bevel square? Squaring the bevel is not as important as getting the sharpest edge, IMO, altho some may challenge that.

I have been searching for the "sharpest edge" for well over fifty years and have over fifty hones of all types in a cabinet to choose from...but I have learned that the sharpest edge in the least amount of time, is not to be found with any type of "stone". For me, the lowly bench grinder and a hard stitched muslin buffing wheel charged with chrome oxide, is the answer. There is a learning curve to it and if it is not mastered, it will be a huge disappointment. The edge can be "rounded over" in a heartbeat...but once mastered, IMO it will be the fastest way possible to RESTORE the super-sharp edge to any tool...and I'm not just "whistling Dixie"..
..It's even faster than using a belt grinder with a leather belt for the final edge. But it can be dangerous if not used properly.

You can get your edges very sharp with your WorkSharp using diamond charged laps, purchased from Amazon. IMO, they are the "Last Word" before going to the muslin buff. They are available in grits to 3,000. I suggest starting with 320, then 600, and finally 3,000 grits. And from 3,000, you can go directly to the buff. It will produce a "hair-popping" mirror edge if used correctly, and it will save so much time that can be spent on woodworking. The method can be used on any type of cutting tool, from pocket knives to axes. No excuse to carry a dull pocket knife.


I think someone on another woodworking forum has called it "The Unicorn Method"...but as I said, I have been polishing edges like this for at least fifty years....it works.

[Tapper]

..................
Doug, can you describe the problem you're having with your  present methods? Are you having trouble getting the edge as sharp as possible? Or are you having trouble getting the bevel square? Squaring the bevel is not as important as getting the sharpest edge, IMO, altho some may challenge that.

I have been searching for the "sharpest edge" for well over fifty years and have over fifty hones of all types in a cabinet to choose from...but I have learned that the sharpest edge  in the least amount of time, is not to be found with any type of "stone". For me, the lowly bench grinder and a hard stitched muslin buffing wheel charged with chrome oxide, is the answer. There is a learning curve to it and if it is not mastered, it will be a huge disappointment. The edge can be "rounded over" in a heartbeat...but once mastered, IMO it will be the fastest way possible to RESTORE the super-sharp edge to any tool...and I'm not just "whistling Dixie"..
..It's even faster than using a belt grinder with a leather belt for the final edge. But it can be dangerous if not used properly.

You can get your edges very sharp with your WorkSharp using diamond charged laps, purchased from Amazon. IMO, they are the "Last Word" before going to the muslin buff. They are available in grits to 3,000. I suggest starting with 320, then 600, and finally 3,000 grits. And from 3,000, you can go directly to the buff. It will produce a "hair-popping" mirror edge if used correctly, and it will save so much time that can be spent on woodworking. The method can be used on any type of cutting tool, from pocket knives to axes. No excuse to carry a dull pocket knife.


I think someone on another woodworking forum has called it "The Unicorn Method"...but as I said, I have been polishing edges like this for at least fifty years....it works.

Hey Jack,

In answer to your question, I'm not really having trouble getting a square edge, fortunately. I've always had more trouble getting a very sharp edge I was happy with, although most are "serviceable." I've spent quite a bit of time on the Worksharp today, reacquainting myself with it and making some adjustments. I have several old chisels I've been practicing on and I think I've made good progress. Part of the problem right now with it is that I don't have enough of the correct grits of paper; only have those that came with the unit IIRC.

I haven't been doing much "hand work" lately so not much sharpening. I was able to get some nice square and sharp edges on these chisels today with the Worksharp 3000. Took a while because of the lack of the proper grits, but I finally got there. When I first started this session I discovered that the mounting pad on the Worksharp wasn't aligned properly with the bottom of the glass disc. Got into the owner's manual and was able to make the adjustment to get square cuts. 

Another thing I noticed is that the angle settings on the Worksharp do not match precisely my machinist angle gauge. Won't really matter unless I use both methods, i.e. a combination of the Worksharp and stones. At this point I think the Worksharp can get me where I want to be quality-wise IF I pick up some more pads of various grits. The finest one I have right now is 1000. The litmus test will be plane irons. I have several that need work but did not want to attempt them on the Worksharp until I got it dialed in. I'll try it later and see how it goes.

They make a leather pad for this machine that supposedly is for stropping; I'll look into it. I would like to be able to get a mirror finish on all my edges, chisels and plane irons. I have a buffer so maybe I'll take a look at your finishing technique.

Thanks,

Doug

[CStan]

Koch Sharpening System:

https://woodcarvingillustrated.com/blog/...ng-system/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZ9Ty5ru4vI&t=220s

[Tapper]

BTW, the last few days I've been reading quite a bit about sharpening technique and devices online, including watching several videos by Christopher Schwartz, former editor of Popular Woodworking. I have his book, Handplane Essentials, and have been reading the sections on sharpening again. He says he grinds the primary bevel on both chisels and plane irons to 25 degrees, and the micro-bevel to 35 degrees.

Was wondering how this aligns with what others here do?

Doug

[CStan]

BTW, the last few days I've been reading quite a bit about sharpening technique and devices online, including watching several videos by Christopher Schwartz, former editor of Popular Woodworking. I have his book, Handplane Essentials, and have been reading the sections on sharpening again. He says he grinds the primary bevel on both chisels and plane irons to 25 degrees, and the micro-bevel to 35 degrees.

Was wondering how this aligns with what others here do?

Doug

That's a more or less standard procedure, but 35* is too high IMO.  25* grind with a 30* secondary are numbers you will see repeatedly. Paring chisels and straight carvers are ground and honed at lower angles. Using a single bevel is perfectly fine and you might even like it better.