Used every clamp

[jteneyck]

I'm making a three layer Sapele lamination, about 46" ID and 52" OD. There are 12 segments in each ring, which I cut on my RAS, using my new miter table set at 15 deg.  I made a sled to sit on the table so I could cut them like you would for a segmented ring bowl.  



I glued up half rings using TB II.  



and the two halves together:



I glued up the laminations with West Systems epoxy.  It's the first time I've used it and I have to say it's much easier to work with than the System III T-88 I've used in the past.  The pumps on the containers were worthless, however, though to be fair they are at least a year old (given to me by a friend).  So I weighed out the correct amounts of resin and catalyst.  The spread rate on the can was optimistic, too, I found I needed about twice as much, 1 oz per sq. ft if anyone is interested.  Once mixed the epoxy spread beautifully with a plastic autobody spreader into which I cut 1/8" deep slits with a pull handsaw.  I use the same spreader for yellow glue.  Works great.  

I used every F-style clamp I own, except one.  Normally, I put laminations in my vacuum bag, but this one is too large to fit, hence the forest of clamps.  



John

[museumguy]

The old adage, never enough clamps strikes again. Love it. Now, whatcha makin?

[6270_Productions]

The old adage, never enough clamps strikes again. Love it. Now, whatcha makin?

A rack to hold clamps?

[jteneyck]

The old adage, never enough clamps strikes again. Love it. Now, whatcha makin?

I'm making a new ring for this glass top table.



The original was made with 12 segments glued together with splines.  At least half of the joints have opened up in the 7 years since I built it, some pretty badly, although it's still all together.  I think the approach with 3 laminated rings having all that glue area will survive much better.  At least I hope so.  If the new ring fails, then I'll either have to make one out of really thin layers, like plywood, or make one by wrapping narrow veneer around a template the size of the ID.  That would work, for sure, but be a messy process, and likely not be nearly as attractive.  

Sapele, by the way.  

John

[museumguy]

That's gonna be nice looking. Sapele is very nice to work with. How thick is it?

Can't wait to see the rest of the progression pics.

[jteneyck]

That's gonna be nice looking. Sapele is very nice to work with. How thick is it?

Can't wait to see the rest of the progression pics.

Yes, Sapele is a terrific wood to work with, except splinters hurt like heck.  And it's still surprisingly inexpensive.  I paid $7.17 for the 5/4 stock I needed.  

The original top, in the photo, is 1-1/8" thick.  the new one is likely to end up around 1-3/16".

I got all those clamps off and put away a little earlier, and made a trammel for my router to cut the OD, ID, and glass rabbett.  I cut the OD first.  





Edge quality looks very good.  I'm pleased so far. 



Gotta go try to keep up with the grass.  More later.  

John

[jteneyck]

I finished cutting the ring ID and rabbett using the same process with the router and trammel.  Seemed like an extraordinary amount of chips were generated.  Maybe I'm spoiled with the CNC with its built in dust collection.  After I sanded the ring I took it outside and put a coat of Penefin Hardwood Oil on it.  Then I removed the old ring and glass from the table, cleaned up the base, and applied a new coat of Penofin to it as well.  I was impressed how well the base cleaned up and looked after the new coat of finish, pretty much like new.  I found a couple of mud wasp nests between the uprights, too, and dealt with them in the process. 

Here's what the old ring looked like after I took it off.



Many of the joints were loose and I could easily have separated it into several pieces.  I won't use splined joints for outside work again.   The table is covered, too, so it's not subjected to direct weather, just temperature/humidity changes.  



Today a couple of my woodworking friends came over to do what old guys do.  One of them helped me put the glass back into the table so we could sit down and tell each other lies.  



This is a blurry photo of the 3 layers, offset halfway on each segment.  



The ring just sits in small rabbett on the cross members, so it can expand/contract as it wants.  The glass must weigh 80 lbs or more, so there's no danger of it blowing off - at least in WNY.  



The first ring lasted 7 years.  I think this one is good for the long haul, but the next year or two will tell me if Mother nature has gotten the better of me once again.  

John

[joe1086]

I think I remember your posts on the original! Time flies.

[Bill Holt]

Truly a beautiful table.

[kurt18947]

What failed on the original ring, glue? If so epoxy should help there. Very nice job.