Attachment Question, Nails & Glue?

[Scoony]

I am working on a dining table project. The table base is basically two ply boxes made from 3/4" maple ply with accent strips attached. The strips are 3/4 x 3/4 red oak. 

The ply boxes have been painted with a flat black enamel. The accent strips have been dyed, stained , and coated with varnish. The face that will be against the ply box has dye only, no stain, and no finish. The strips will be mitered to wrap around the boxes.

The question is on attaching the strips to the boxes. I would like to use glue and nails. 

Glue: I am not sure what glue would work given the painted surface, but it would have to be a product that does not leave much of a mess. I will be able to go back and touch up the paint between the strips, but I would like to avoid that as much as possible.

Nails: I have a 18 ga nailer and a 16 ga finish nailer. The concern with the finish nailer would be splitting the strips. I could also use just pain finish nails and hammer them in by hand using predrilled holes to prevent splitting.  There is no option to screw the strips from behind. I also have a 23 ga pin nailer that I can use on the corners.  

I am open to suggestions.

[jteneyck]

I'd think about a few pieces of double stick tape to get the strips attached to the base and then nail them on by hand.  Gluing the entire strip on won't be easy, nor do many glues stick well to paint.  CA glue is one that does but drips or runs wouldn't be easy to deal with.  

Oh yeah, a biscuit joiner would allow you to glue them on.  Or cut a slot with your router and use a spline.  

John

[museumguy]

You could forgo the glue on the strips. Maybe a little on the mitered corners. I would use the 23g nailer to attach the strips.

[Bill Holt]

Very glad I do not have your job!!!!!!!!!

I think I would go with glue and pin Nailer.  Down low, where they will get kicked, I might use epoxy. (oh so messy)

[Scoony]

One adhesive that might work is Loctite PL premium. I think if I cut a shallow groove down the backs of the strips, that would provide a channel for the adhesive and prevent squeeze-out.

For the miters, I will use wood glue.

[Bob Vaughan]

Maybe consider dowels.
Make a dowel jig from an extra strip of red oak.  It should easily last eight drillings per hole.

[Gary G™]

What happened such that you have paint where you want bare wood for good gluing?

I’ve used Lexel 6000 in places where no other adhesive would hold.
However, it’s a mess and hard to clean up too.

[Hank Knight]

If you rough up to surface of the enamel with some medium grit sandpaper, hide glue would probably adhere pretty well. I would use hide glue and tack the accent strips on with the 23 gauge pinner. If you don't trust the glue, clamp wood guide strips along both sides of the glue line. Then rig up a narrow sanding block with some medium grit sandpaper and attack the enamel. The guide strips will protect the paint outside the glue line. A little elbow grease with the sanding block will remove the enamel and expose bare wood that any wood glue will adhere to.

[Scoony]

Gary, I have considered T-6000 adhesive and have a tube to test.

Other ideas that have been brought up:
Splines. If I had a track saw, this would work.
Dowels. I actually have thought of this.

I am going to test with the T-6000 and both 18 and 23 ga nails to see what will work.

Hank - I just used hide glue on a recent project and have a new batch on hand. I just find it a messy adhesive. Works, but messy.

[Roly]

Gary, I have considered T-6000 adhesive and have a tube to test. 

Other ideas that have been brought up:
Splines.  If I had a track saw, this would work.
Dowels. I actually have thought of this.

I am going to test with the T-6000 and both 18 and 23 ga nails to see what will work.

Hank - I just used hide glue on a recent project and have a new batch on hand.  I just find it a messy adhesive. Works, but messy.

I would think 3M automotive molding tape would work and be a lot less messy.   Made to stick to paint also.  Roly