two 1 1/2 hp dust collectors operated on 'long ranger' switches

[anwalt2]

I have two dust collectors on opposite sides of my shop.  Each is 1 1/2 hp, wired 240v.  Wondering if I can operate on two remote switches without turning on both at the same time. 

Said another way, do the remote switches all operate on the same radio frequencies?  If yes, may they be adjusted?  Do different brands use different frequencies?  

thanks for suggestions,
tom

[stav]

I'd check your remotes to see if they have switch settings in them. My ceiling fans at home are remote operated and inside of each remote and each fan are four switches that allow you to set the code for that remote/fan combo.

[fredhargis]

Not sure of the Long Ranger 2 has swiutch settings, the one I had (LR 1) did not. You could make your own remotes using a contactor, they in turn use those simple $10 lamp remotes to power the DC on/off. Simply choose 2 different makes of lamp switches for the remote.

[thewalnutguy]

I have two dust collectors on opposite sides of my shop.  Each is 1 1/2 hp, wired 240v.  Wondering if I can operate on two remote switches without turning on both at the same time. 

Said another way, do the remote switches all operate on the same radio frequencies?  If yes, may they be adjusted?  Do different brands use different frequencies?  

thanks for suggestions,
tom

I'm a fan of X10 brand remote controls. These have both 
"Home" (A-P) and "Unit number (1-8). You can have multiple devices using the same Home and Unit  code so they both come on or off at the same time. I have multiple control units scattered throughout the shop near each of the tools connected to the central Oneida dust collector, with individual blast gates near the tool. No wiring is required between controllers and controled devices, the control units transmit codes to the device to be controlled via electrical power circuit so I can control tools or lights from remote locations, such as turning on or off outdoor lights on a separate building. X10 may be considered old school, but they work and aren't terribly expensive. They're available for both 110 and 240 volt devices.

[kurt18947]

Being biased against anything wireless where there's a practical alternative, I'd think about relays and low voltage control circuits with multiple start/stop stations. I'm certain wireless is cheaper though. If doing wireless I'd probably follow Fred's advice and get 2 definite purpose contactor, 2 of the wireless controls to control the coils on the definite purpose contactor and those relays would likely outlive a Long Ranger by a fair margin. I can't say about the wireless remote units but they're about $12 - $15 on Ebay.

[tablesawtom]

This  may be a different approach to your problem. I have a Delta dual voltage dust collector. I left it 115 and I hooked it up with one feed to my table saw and and one to the jointer, no blast gates. I ran  two 3 way switches, one to the saw and the other to the jointer so I could turn it on at the saw and off at the jointer and visa versa. I never misplaced a remote. That way you can set up more collectors with less duck work.

I know it doesn't pertain to your question but it is another way of looking at it.

Tom

[Mike in kc]

I use two of these with the battery operated switches in separate locations to turn my collector on.  



 They don't interfere with each other, and in fact I use 12 of these units in the shop, with the other ten being used for banks of lighting.   They don't interfere with one another.

Amazon, twenty bucks and easy to install.   I've been using them for 3 years now and no problems.

[R Clark]

I just upgraded my DC system from a "2HP" HF to a 3HP Powermatic system.  The old system was controlled through an iVac unit.  That iVac was for a 110V DC, so it was a no-go for the PM.

For a number of reasons, over time I was only using the iVac remote controller, and not the automated switching...

Since a new iVac controller was going to run $100+ for what was going to be a remote fob use only system, I opted for one of the cheap Amazon offerings.  I got the VONVOFF Wireless Remote Switch for less than $20.  It comes with two remotes, so I have a spare if ever needed.  These units pair the specific controller(s) with a specific remote, so I'm sure you could run multiple units in one shop.  The units are capable of operation with a 30A system.

I want to sell my iVac units, but I see they've changed the system design, and so mine are outdated. 

[jteneyck]

I just upgraded my DC system from a "2HP" HF to a 3HP Powermatic system.  The old system was controlled through an iVac unit.  That iVac was for a 110V DC, so it was a no-go for the PM.

For a number of reasons, over time I was only using the iVac remote controller, and not the automated switching...

Since a new iVac controller was going to run $100+ for what was going to be a remote fob use only system, I opted for one of the cheap Amazon offerings.  I got the VONVOFF Wireless Remote Switch for less than $20.  It comes with two remotes, so I have a spare if ever needed.  These units pair the specific controller(s) with a specific remote, so I'm sure you could run multiple units in one shop.  The units are capable of operation with a 30A system.

I want to sell my iVac units, but I see they've changed the system design, and so mine are outdated. 

Thank you!  I'd been thinking about putting a remote on my DC.  The low price and your recommendation were just what I needed to go ahead.  $18 for the remote and $14 for this electrical box to house it. The electrical box came with everything needed to mount the relay inside, and to mount the box to the side of my DC.  The remotes were already paired with the relay, so it required nothing more than hooking up the wiring to put it into service.  Works great.  I have one remote hung on the front of my shop apron and the other hanging on the DC for times when I might not have my apron on.  

For anyone who is considering buying one of these, it will work with both 120 and 240 V systems.  The info. on Amazon shows it being paired with a contactor for 240V and 3 phase applications, but I saw a video someone posted where they hooked a 240 V machine with two 120V hot wires directly to the relay, so that's what I did and it works fine.  One hot wire goes to L and the other to N.  That probably means that the wire downstream of terminal N always has potential so if that doesn't sit well then install the contactor, too.  

John

[R Clark]

Good deal, John.  Glad you can make use of it.

The unit is surprisingly small, at least in my opinion.  Because of the electrical configuration of my shop, I have to use a shop-made extension cable.  I put that unit inline on that cable, inside a 2x4 metal box, just upstream of the metal box containing the outlet into which the DC connects.