Baluster Design

[Tapper]

I'm working on a staircase project in our home and considering using the design linked below for the new balusters. We have an Arts and Craft theme and the LOML and I like the way this looks. Material will be QSWO. I do not have any dimensions on the design of the balusters but am guessing they are 5/8" to 3/4" thick and the holes look to be ~1/2" square. 

Question is: What is the best, quickest and easiest way to make the 4 hole pattern? Obviously there will be quite a number to make, i.e. staircase handrails and bannister on landing/loft area.

Baluster

Options I've thought of:

1) Hollow Chisel Mortiser - I have a Delta 14-651 Hollow Chisel Mortiser and have made some test cuts. The quality of the holes doesn't seem to pass the quality test. A little ragged and some tearout on the bottom, even with a backer board. I'm using the original chisel that came with the unit.

2) Make a "perfect" pattern out of wood, overlaying it on to the work piece. Drill out each square with a 7/16" Forstner bit and then trim the perimeter and corners with a corner chisel.

3) Considered a router solution (after drilling out primary hole) but not sure bits with bearings would work well enough in such a confined space to be productive and/or accurate. 

Is there a better solution I'm not thinking about?

Thanks,

Doug

[Bob Vaughan]

Maybe you can get a metalworking square broach on eBay for cheap.  Drill a hole and press it through with a drill press (in stages, of course).

[MstrCarpenter]

Got an idea; involves a couple files. Start to follow the idea by picturing the baluster positioned in a vice positioned such that the depth of cut is limited by the vice jaws, limiting that depth is the goal.  Now picture this. I file edge banding flush with the panel face (without damaging it) by putting a few wraps of tape around the (non-handle) end of the file to slide across the face. So our vice jaws are too small to do this, but if you clamped the baluster against (between) the right thickness "panel(s)", you could very quickly progress through a rasp, coarse file, and fine file. We could even tack a few limiting guides on that panel to control the width. If the baluster's width is consistent, and the pairs of holes are referenced from each edge, I see that we'd need only two "panel" thicknesses.

Or there's an easier way. Just read a thread where a fellow Woodnetter found some long 1/8" dia. bits for his CNC.
Send him your blanks.

[Woodenfish]

I would think to make a dowel drilling jig for the balusters and another one for the lower stair rail. You will haven plenty of strength and accuracy. The top of the balusters look to me are captured to the rail and the filler blocks.

[Tapper]

I would think to make a dowel drilling jig for the balusters and another one for the lower stair rail. You will haven plenty of strength and accuracy. The top of the balusters look to me are captured to the rail and the filler blocks.

Not sure I'm following this logic. Help me understand how this applies to the 4 square hole Arts & Craft design?

Thanks,

Doug

[Gary G™]

I would buy high end mortising chisel bits and use the mortiser.

[Tapper]

I would buy high end mortising chisel bits and use the mortiser.

I've considered that option. It seems the Japanese models at Lee Valley and also Fisch are considered some of the best. Anyone have any experience with either of these? Any other brands you can recommend?

Note: One of the problems with hollow chisel mortisers (in this application) is that the bit sometimes cuts an "oval" on one side of the square hole. If that happens, again in this application, this method will not work as you would not have a square hole. Maybe with the high-end chisels this does not happen; I just don't know.

Doug

[jteneyck]

There has to be a local woodworking CNC shop in your area.  They could make them accurately and quickly.  They could even cut out the entire baluster at the same time.  

I'm surprised no one has mentioned using a router and template.  That would be my approach if doing it by hand.  Drill out the bulk first on your drill press.  Then use a 1/8" spiral endmill (no bearing) and a collet to index with your template to cut the square.  The corners will have a 1/16" radius.  If that just won't do, then chisel and/or file them square.  

I just used a 1/8" endmill with a 1/4" shank on my CNC yesterday.  It has a cutting length of over 1", which should be sufficient for the balusters.  

You have to make dozens and dozens of these.  Anything less than something pretty efficient is going to be drudgery.  I'd look for that CNC shop.  

John

[Tapper]

There has to be a local woodworking CNC shop in your area.  They could make them accurately and quickly.  They could even cut out the entire baluster at the same time.  

I'm surprised no one has mentioned using a router and template.  That would be my approach if doing it by hand.  Drill out the bulk first on your drill press.  Then use a 1/8" spiral endmill (no bearing) and a collet to index with your template to cut the square.  The corners will have a 1/16" radius.  If that just won't do, then chisel and/or file them square.  

I just used a 1/8" endmill with a 1/4" shank on my CNC yesterday.  It has a cutting length of over 1", which should be sufficient for the balusters.  

You have to make dozens and dozens of these.  Anything less than something pretty efficient is going to be drudgery.  I'd look for that CNC shop.  

John

Hi John,

Thanks for the reminder. I know we discussed this offline recently. I have a couple of inquiries out to local CNC shops to see if they're interested and if so, how much it will cost. I have an alternative plan to make a template on the Bridgeport out of aluminum to use with a router. Holiday weekend coming up - I'll report back when/if I hear from these guys.

Doug

[Woodenfish]

Looks like I totally misread your post. I think John is on to something with finding a local CNC shop.