#12
Struggling with marking dovetails using either of my bevel gauges, as the wing nut seems to always be in the way. Am I doing something wrong, or are the gauges only functional one way, and two are really required to layout both sides of the tails?

One is an "antique", the other is the small one Lee Valley sells. Same issue with both of them.
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#13
Not about the bevel gauges...

My suggestion on laying out the tails: Don't.

Instead, I always recommend a little practice using scraps, to learn to cut parallel to a line, or to two lines or more:



1. Number your practice cuts.
2. This will give you some idea how your dovetail saw is doing, and whether you must do a little tuning first.

For very small boxes (smaller than a dovetail jig will handle easily), I sometimes use a shop-made dovetail marker, with slopes more severe than is "normal":



Al

But much of the time I simply eyeball the angles. Try it, after practicing following parallel to a line.

Also, I suggest you keep your practice joints:

Blog: Sandal Woods - Fine Woodworking

Frank Klausz, to The Schwarz (WIA 2010): "...If YOU guys keep doing what you’re doing, this thing is not gonna die..."
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#14
nodima said:


Struggling with marking dovetails using either of my bevel gauges, as the wing nut seems to always be in the way. Am I doing something wrong, or are the gauges only functional one way, and two are really required to layout both sides of the tails?

One is an "antique", the other is the small one Lee Valley sells. Same issue with both of them.




The only sliding bevel gauge that will not lose a setting is the model made by Chris Vesper. However that is overkill for dovetails. Get or make a dedicated dovetail marking gauge. There are so many designs that your head will swim. Whatever works for you.

Here are some I made from angle brass ...



Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#15
Derek Cohen said:

The only sliding bevel gauge that will not lose a setting is the model made by Chris Vesper. However that is overkill for dovetails.



I have several Stanley 18s (and a Craftsman version of the same design) that hold their settings quite well in carpentry work, where they get banged around some; and a couple of the older Stanley bevels with the lever lock that also hold. I've never seen, much less used, the Vesper bevel, but it's hard to imagine it could be better.

Most bevels seem kinda large for dovetail marking, though.
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#16
I don't use a bevel guage to mark mine. I made my own dovetail markers. There are several ways to make your own. Here's how I made mine.
If it wasn't for last minute, nothing would get done.

Visit my site for project pics and videos: dlgwoodwork.com
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#17
dlgWoodWork said:


I don't use a bevel guage to mark mine. I made my own dovetail markers. There are several ways to make your own. Here's how I made mine.




I cannot recommend your construction. The wood grain runs in the wrong direction, and this makes them vulnerable to breaking.

Either make yours like Sandalwoods, or dovetail two pieces together so that the grain runs appropriately ...



Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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#18
nodima said:


Struggling with marking dovetails using either of my bevel gauges, as the wing nut seems to always be in the way. Am I doing something wrong, or are the gauges only functional one way, and two are really required to layout both sides of the tails?

One is an "antique", the other is the small one Lee Valley sells. Same issue with both of them.




you can unscrew and reset the bold for the older bevel. I have one that was also filed down to not protrude past the wood base. I am thinking Veritas can be fixed the same way. I was not aware that Veritas had the half flakey lever lock too.

Or, you can buy, or make, everything that the Handy Boys have. An adjustable bevel works fine, once it does what it should.

They're like glue clamps... Horny little things that proliferate like rabbits, or mice.
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#19
nodima said:


Struggling with marking dovetails using either of my bevel gauges, as the wing nut seems to always be in the way. Am I doing something wrong, or are the gauges only functional one way, and two are really required to layout both sides of the tails?

One is an "antique", the other is the small one Lee Valley sells. Same issue with both of them.




Get a bevel gauge with a cone washer lock such a s this

http://www.amazon.com/Sliding-T-Bevel-8-...ds=shinwa+bevel

Shinwa makes a smaller one but I didn't immediately find it on Amazon. Vintage ones exist and makers like Chris Vesper have a design that works great too. Vintage Stanley bevel gauges with the lever lock can be adjusted so the lock lever lines up with the frame and out of the way.

Or make a gauge or buy a gauge.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#20
Thanks - great suggestions, I'll probably make up a couple of the guides and work from there.

Cheers.
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#21
Paul Sellers has an easy to make dovetail marking gauge on You Tube video.

Easy and quick to make.

I use a 1:7 for just about everything. A nice compromise between 1:6 and 1:8
George

if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green

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Dovetail layout with bevel gauge


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