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I've hung and taped too many jobs for a finish carpenter to admit, but when I had the big crew we basically let the G.C.'s crew move on to frame the next job while we did drywall, finish carpentry, painting, and touch-ups before occupancy. I've used lots of "pro tapers" over the years and they all have their favorite materials and methods. Some will even swear there is a front and back of paper tape; yet they disagree on which is which, so it won't bother me if someone says my way is wrong. I've used lots of different methods, but the following "three coat method" is pretty well accepted for a level 3 or 4 finish. (level 5 uses the same steps but gets a final thin coat over any exposed paper and blemishes, if any, are minute.)
1) Prepare damaged areas; cut out paper from any blisters, bumped corners, crushed edges, and missed screws that left more than a screw hole.
2) put mesh tape on all "flats" (two tapered edges on one plane) and over larger size areas addressed above.
3) slowly mix 3/4 bag of Duro-bond 90 into water. Add more water as necessary in very small increments (there's a good chance you'll add too much; hence the remaining 1/4 bag). Re-mix in about two minutes, put beater bar in water, and quickly begin filling the flats. Also fill the damaged areas and any gaps 1/4" or larger. If the Duro-bond starts to set, you can use it up fast on corner bead then mix more in a CLEAN bucket. Do not leave Duro-bond proud; it contains Portland cement. It cannot be sanded!
4) Use ready mix compound with paper tape (I don't care which side goes out) on the butts and inside corners. The seams should be filled and there should be close to 1/16" under the tape. This is considered "first coat" and as it dries it will suck against the sheets and into the seams. The screws get their first coat now too. Fill the holes and scrape the sheet clean. (They'll get two more passes)
5) When dry, scrape any "boogers" with a 6" knife (sanding should not be required). I use either ready mix or setting type (Easy-Sand) compound for second coat depending on the job size and dry time. "Second coat" means just that, except I only pull one side of inside corners. So before I start I decide which sides I'll do first to minimize dragging over wet mud. (i.e. looking in a corner I'll choose right wall vertical, left wall at ceiling and the ceiling at right wall. The next corner is reversed) I prefer to do the flats before the butts so I'll do the wall (vs. the ceiling) at the ends of the sheets. The second half of the corners get done when the first half is completely dry. The screws get a second coat too. Now's a good time to push the sheets against the studs to ensure none of the screws will "Pop", then, same as first time; scrape the wall dry.
6) Again, scrape any "boogers". Third coat typically uses the least amount of mud so unless I'm pushed for time I use ready-mix with about 1/2 cup of water and 1/4 cup of liquid dish soap. Finishing compound is readily available on the west coast but it's not often available here in the northeast. I want third coat to be my final, but it's hard to strike a happy medium between "That looks great!" and "I can do better." I wish I could afford to have someone who's only job is to say; "STOP! That's good enough.
7) Time to sand! If the Taper was indeed "Professional", the corners should be done except for where he lifted his 6" knife. I use a long sanding sponge. One pass usually does it. Everywhere else gets a sanding pole with 120 -150 grit open coat. After sanding I'll look for any blemishes with a bright flashlight across the surface and touch up with that third coat mix so it wont need sanding again. I'll check again the same way after primer and before finish coat.
I've been using this system for many years and can report no unexplained failures over the long term. The few failures I've encountered were "operator error"; usually from not waiting for first coat to dry or starving the joint causing the paper tape to blister when painting. I personally have not installed "no coat" tape, but it does help straighten out corners and easily keeps those angles for cathedral ceilings nice and straight. Again, no failures observed, but they were done by "professionals".
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"