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Location: Wapakoneta, OH
Almost all of them will do the same (IMO). The complaint about the "devils ears" is what you are seeing, only it's shows up on a tenon in several spots giving it the rough look. I cut mine just a hair over, and then smooth them out with a shoulder plane, though a sharp chisel would work just as good. I'm using the SD 508 Freud set. Someone mentioned the Dadonator has very small devil's ears, that might be an option or the Freud box joint set which cuts flat bottoms.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 7,969
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I have the SD508. The bottoms are much smoother than SD206 set which I used to have.
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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I've got a set ($160 Freud, I think) that makes flat bottoms, but it's real fun trying to work the tight blades off the arbor. Price you pay for precision. The old Delta set didn't do so well, so I went here.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.as...&cat=1,41182 all you need is one, I guess, but I find them handy enough to use the set. You could also use a chisel.
With them available, I can nibble and clean most of the time.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Location: CinDay
The perfect fix Note the 3/4" blade is just 19 bux. You can flat grind it to meet the thickness of undersized 3/4" ply, or really grind it to 1/2" ply. For smaller I just use a chisel on just the outer show edge. The part trapped in the middle is blind. You actually could do that on wider widths, but if in the wider width you have a greater accumulation of fuzz, and chaf. Well it is harder to compress a lot of junk, not so hard to squish a wispy amount. Playing with it will will teach you this.
You will find many uses for the router plane beside this, once you have it available. Really handy tool, and because it rides on top of the stock, it doesn't require crazy hand skillz to control it.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW