#16
I'm in the process of designing a table and fence setup for my new ras.
Wanting to get max crosscut capacity.

If I set the fence distance to get max cc on 3/4" stock, it would prevent cutting anything much thicker. Setting the fence to be able to cc 2" stock, cuts the cc by about 1 1/4".

How do others deal with this? On other ras's I have had, I just laid a piece of wood against the fence, to space it out.

I was thinking of mounting the fence for max cc with 3/4" stock. Then basically take a 2 x 4 +/- planed wood, cut a 3/4" groove the length of it on one side. Make 2 of these to straddle the orig fence, on either side of blade. It would be an aux. fence. A couple of screw studs, and wing nuts to hold to fence.
Or, just a 2nd fence to replace the one for 3/4" stock.

Anyone have a solution?
I long for the days when Coke was a soft drink, and Black and Decker was a quality tool.
Happiness is a snipe free planer
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#17
I have a couple of 2" wide fence extensions I just screw in place to do thicker stock.

the screws hold them in place.

KIS
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#18
JGrout said:


I have a couple of 2" wide fence extensions I just screw in place to do thicker stock.

the screws hold them in place.

KIS




Yup, that's why there are usually a few pieces at the back, so you can rearrange to fit your stock thickness and max capacity. Mine is usually setup for cutting 8/4 material, and I put it back when I need to max cut 3/4 material.
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#19
cvillewood said:

... Yup, that's why there are usually a few pieces at the back, so you can rearrange to fit your stock thickness and max capacity....


+1

My Dewalt came with 2 backboards.
- Fence clamped with both backboards behind fence= blade completely behind fence
- Narrower backboard in front of fence= maximum crosscut with 3/4" stock.
- Both backboards in front of fence= maximum rip

If the cut entailed a stop block, then I just flip it over and finish the cut. Usually dead on.

I also keep a sharp toolbox crosscut handsaw hanging from my RAS.
If I have a need, I finish the cut with that. On those I cut about half a pencil line strong, then use my shooting board to remove any saw marks.
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#20
srv52761 said:


[blockquote]cvillewood said:

... Yup, that's why there are usually a few pieces at the back, so you can rearrange to fit your stock thickness and max capacity....


+1

My Dewalt came with 2 backboards.
- Fence clamped with both backboards behind fence= blade completely behind fence
- Narrower backboard in front of fence= maximum crosscut with 3/4" stock.
- Both backboards in front of fence= maximum rip

If the cut entailed a stop block, then I just flip it over and finish the cut. Usually dead on.

I also keep a sharp toolbox crosscut handsaw hanging from my RAS.
If I have a need, I finish the cut with that. On those I cut about half a pencil line strong, then use my shooting board to remove any saw marks.


[/blockquote]

You can also use the "max rip position", per your description, to maximize your CC, if you only trust the one edge to be square to the cut (i.e. you can't just flip the board to take the second cut). It makes it a longer two step process (cut with fence in normal CC position, then relocate the fence to behind the spacers and take a second cut) then when you have parallel edges, but I have done this myself with good results.
Paul
They were right, I SHOULDN'T have tried it at home!
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#21
I like the blade completely behind the fence. I don't mind giving up an inch or two.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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#22
Richard D. said:


I like the blade completely behind the fence. I don't mind giving up an inch or two.




I agree. I set mine up and I am little in front and it is to easy to bump that spinning blade and bad things happen fast!!
I have found how much a boat is used is inversely related to how much it weighs.

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#23
I set mine as shown in the 1950 version of the Delta manual: the fence is clamped in with a spacer behind it. If I want to move the fence back, I swap them.
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#24
I had my RAS fence/table set up the way Alan describes for years. I finally realized that I never used the max resaw capability, so the last table I built was solid and Placed the fence so it shielded the balde, and fixed it permanently to my RAS bench. This allows for a long fence that extends the full length of my RAS bench on both sides if the blade. I can cut up to 50" lengths to he right of the blade and unlimited lengths (for all practical purposed) to the left of the blade. I still haven't needed more crosscut capacity. My saw is set up for crosscutting, and that's what I use it for. Howrver, I can remove a section of the permanent crosscut fence and reconfigure it for other cuts if necessary.



Here's a better, more recent photo:



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#25
Trouble is,no matter how much you have, yer gonna want a little bit more...

I get about 12.5 inches of CC from the arm saw and wish for 15, to match my planer. This is with the fence safely in front of the blade.
I think there is a practical limit, from a safety point of view. But I dont know what that limit is.

Somewhere I got the thought that my power tools should all have about the same capacity.

Silly notion I guess, but somehow this makes sense to me.
Ag -ricultural.
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RAS fence ideas for max crosscut?


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