#23
it's warm so the shellac dries really fast when putting it on, anything new on the market to slow it down so i can actually get a whole one side of a door before it starts getting sticky where I was 2 minutes ago?

If not, the new $500ish earlex worth buying, or still put the $$ towards a FUJI or other true HVLP setup?

Ideally something that I could put a small disposable cup in, drop the parts in an alcohol bath and not mess with much between coats that might be a couple of days apart.
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#24
I have read, but not tried, that 1 teaspoon of gum turpentine to 4 ozs of shellac does slow it down. Those that knows their alcohols better than I can advise on which of those evaporate more slowly. But here's not anything new, at least anything that has been widely publicized.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#25
I'm with Fred, there's nothing new I've heard of that will do what you want.  Others may have a suggestion.

However, spraying shellac is the way to go without question.  All kinds of advice (and prior threads) on what kind of HVLP system to get, just settle on one and enjoy.  For me, the Earlex 5500 works just fine for everything I want to spray - $300.  Very inexpensive way to get into spraying.

Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#26
Shellac is pretty easy to spray.  I get good results just using a cheap gravity feed HVLP gun I got at Home Depot and my compressor.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?

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#27
(09-02-2016, 06:21 AM)Joel H. Wrote: I'm with Fred, there's nothing new I've heard of that will do what you want.  Others may have a suggestion.

However, spraying shellac is the way to go without question.  All kinds of advice (and prior threads) on what kind of HVLP system to get, just settle on one and enjoy.  For me, the Earlex 5500 works just fine for everything I want to spray - $300.  Very inexpensive way to get into spraying.

Joel

To the OP:

A little bit of turps will slow the dry time.  Cooler weather helps too.  And you can switch alcohol types, isopropyl, I think.  I'm just using the stuff in the metal can from the hardware store so it is mostly methanol now.  Seems fine.  The turps does work, but I bought a small bottle of real turpentine from the art store, not the substitute stuff in the metal can from the hardware store.

The least expensive turbine unit I know of that handles shellac well is the one for $100-$120 from Harbor Freight / Rockler (and private labeled a few other places).  Comes with a 1.0mm tip which is just about perfect.  

If you have a sufficiently beefy compressor, the $9 purple gun from HF works but its tip is a bit on the large side.  You have to fiddle with the air to not get large droplets.  At one point you could get other sizes from the HF parts department.  Never tried and have since given the gun away to somebody who wanted to experiment with it.

And the Earlex 5500 2-stage can do a good job with shellac if you switch to its smallest tip.  I think the default size is either 1.5mm or 2.0mm which might be a bit on the large side.

I've experimented with all three of these but eventually settled on a 4-stage unit from SprayFine.  Even outfitting myself with nearly every aircap/needle/nozzle combo they have I barely broke the $600 barrier.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#28
Thank you gentlemen, how is the clean up on the sprayfine for those that are using and the Earlex?  Pour into a cup or disposable cups or bags used?

The weather dropped this weekend so I think i will get by, and I changed to brushing with a good shellac brush the moulding of the door so as to be able to spend less time in general out in the field of the door.  Trying to do the moulding and then the field or the field then the moulding was proving difficult in the time the shellac was getting sticky.

Sprayfine handle some other finishes as well?  Always been tempted to buy a gun that could handle all the way up to the heavy latex one would paint on a house these days, but parent in laws have a wagner crew painter and I imagine that is better suited to larger spaces than a small tank on a hvlp with heavily thinned latex.
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#29
Cleaning spray equipment (any of it) from shellac couldn't be easier. All it takes is household ammonia, the stuff absolutely destroys shellac, cleans the equipment much better than alcohol (which simply dissolves and dilutes the shellac) and is really cheap. Warm water in a 5 gallon bucket with a cup or so of ammonia, then rinse and done. I clean my Fuji that way all the time, the only caution I would add is that the ammonia can stain aluminum...though it's only a stain.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#30
(09-03-2016, 10:17 AM)fredhargis Wrote: Cleaning spray equipment (any of it) from shellac couldn't be easier. All it takes is household ammonia, the stuff absolutely destroys shellac, cleans the equipment much better than alcohol (which simply dissolves and dilutes the shellac) and is really cheap. Warm water in a 5 gallon bucket with a cup or so of ammonia, then rinse and done. I clean my Fuji that way all the time, the only caution I would add is that the ammonia can stain aluminum...though it's only a stain.


I cannot support this answer enough!  I'm sure it was Fred who turned me onto ammonia - wow!  After spraying shellac, pour a mixture of ammonia & water into the cup and spray through the gun for a minute.   Then disassemble and soak in the bucket.  Done!

Clean your used shellac container (I use the 16oz mason jars) in the same bucket after you've finished with your gun.  

Thanks Fred,

Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#31
Quick shot with alcohol followed by the soapy ammonia and a final water rinse.

I am also using the bags from Harbor Freight to keep the cup clean.

Sprayed all kinds of stuff with A401 rig. Latex enamel no problems.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#32
Thank you again for answers, found the equipment on the link above, and although I do not have the compressor to run latex, will take up a conversation with Todd about a turbine system. Was really intrigued with the clear cups and the bag liners Seemed like something I could leave a bit of shellac in between coats and toss in the refrigerator.

Not sure how much latex I will ever really spray, but it sure sounds nice next time the wifey decides she does not like the paint color in the house. And hour of taping off and $10 in drop clothes sounds nice.
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want to slow down some shellac


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