#17
Was trolling You Tube and saw this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ-S7dp_CFw
It is a bench build and not remarkable other than the builder uses salt from a shaker on a face to face glue joint to prevent the two pieces from sliding around during clamping.
Filing this under "learning something new".
Anyone here use this "salt stop" practice?
Ag
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#18
I've seen sand used and used cut-off brads myself for the same purpose, but never salt.
Mike


If you're the smartest person in the room, you're in the wrong room!

But not today...
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#19
(10-10-2016, 09:17 AM)gMike Wrote:  used cut-off brads .


Thanks for that little tip!
Mark

I'm no expert, unlike everybody else here - Busdrver


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#20
This technique was shared on a PBS video some years ago:  A Craftsman's Legacy Episode 1: The Woodworker
http://www.craftsmanslegacy.com/episodes/season_1 )
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#21
(10-10-2016, 09:12 AM)AgGEM Wrote: Was trolling You Tube and saw this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ-S7dp_CFw
It is a bench build and not remarkable other than the builder uses salt from a shaker on a face to face glue joint to prevent the two pieces from sliding around during clamping.
Filing this under "learning something new".
Anyone here use this "salt stop" practice?
Ag

If you ask chemists who work at the companies that make "modern" (i.e. PVA, etc) glues, they will likely tell you not to do this.

However, if you use hide glue (cold or hot), a little salt won't hurt it.  Salt is one of the additives you can use to get longer open time.  The few grains added to the edge of a board won't alter the open time so that you would notice.

The biggest problem I have witnessed with such tricks is the "if some is good, more is better" problem.  

It does work but I find it easier to just do a bit of a rub joint so that things grab, make a little final alignment and then be careful with the clamps.  Times when that just won't work (things at angles, etc), I do the snipped nail thing.  23ga headless brads work pretty well and you usually don't have to snip them.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#22
If you use sand most likely at some point it's going end up nicking and planer knives or saw blade or some cutting edge in the shop. I don't like sand in my shop.
Alaskan's for Global Warming
Eagle River AK
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#23
What about using corn meal? I've used that for a sanded paint finish when I didn't have sand. Seems like it might do what's needed without the problems mentioned.
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#24
I don't like the idea. I agree with the earlier poster, Rob Young. Bad idea with PVA, and likely to be too liberally applied.
I've never done it, or the sand trick either.
In the future? I make no promises. One day I might discover this is the only medicine in the jar, and my patient has a bad case of "slips when glued."
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Pass the Salt, Please....


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