What's a good use for a standard angle block plane?

[overland]

I have  a couple of these, an old Stanley 9 1/4 and and an old Millers Falls 75 with the wooden knob in front. I think the irons are bedded at 20 degrees. They're not low angle. So I wonder what might be a good use for them? I tend to use my low angle block plane for end grain, where a low angle is particularly useful. One thing I tried was to sharpen the iron of one of the standard block planes to 45 degrees, which gives a resulting angle of attack of 65. This, I thought, would be good in places prone to tear out. It seems to work pretty well, at least when I take a very light cut, just a wisp. But I thought I would ask for other ideas.

[AHill]

The regular angle block planes are useful for any task that isn't end grain. Putting bevels on boards, trimming doors to fit, flushing pegs/plugs, fitting drawers, etc. You can use a low angle block for all those same tasks, but the low angle invites more tearout, especially if you are working figured woods.

[MichaelMouse]

The regular angle block planes are useful for any task that isn't end grain.  Putting bevels on boards, trimming doors to fit, flushing pegs/plugs, fitting drawers, etc.  You can use a low angle block for all those same tasks, but the low angle invites more tearout, especially if you are working figured woods.

I have to say that ALL the uses, including figured wood, work with low-angle planes.  I have a York pitch and a low-angle smoother, and they both do well on figured wood. 

I still have one standard block, but he's mostly with the grain, and seldom a first choice even there.

[MattP]

I watched a youtube video a few days ago where a guy used a standard angle block plane to edge joint a board. Mind. Blown.

I gave it a try, though, and it works. The technique seems to be to hold the plane so its weight is mainly in your hand, just grazing the board, and as you feel it start to ride up on the high spots, you don't let it, and it cuts right through them. Pretty hilarious. Not retiring my jointer, of course, but I have done it now on the chisel racks I'm making, which are only 7-10 inches long.

[Admiral]

The regular angle block planes are useful for any task that isn't end grain.  Putting bevels on boards, trimming doors to fit, flushing pegs/plugs, fitting drawers, etc.  You can use a low angle block for all those same tasks, but the low angle invites more tearout, especially if you are working figured woods.

Excellent point, often overlooked.

[JimBelair]

I love my Veritas standard angle block with the added large front knob as a small smoother.

[overland]

I find these ideas interesting and useful, even though I suppose to experienced woodworkers they may be too obvious to mention. My question was prompted by a recent post reporting that LN was no longer selling a 9 1/2 standard angle block plane because, as posters speculated, there was no market for such a plane, only the low-angle versions. I wondered why that was. Another question I have is how useful the adjustable mouth really is. I have a 60 1/2 Stanley and never mess with the mouth. But that's a question for anther day. In any case, I often wonder how much the preference for certain tools is a reflection of usefulness--which can vary over time--or just fashion.

[Admiral]

I find these ideas interesting and useful, even though I suppose to experienced woodworkers they may be too obvious to mention. My question was prompted by a recent post reporting that LN was no longer selling a 9 1/2 standard angle block plane because, as posters speculated, there was no market for such a plane, only the low-angle versions. I wondered why that was. Another question I have is how useful the adjustable mouth really is. I have a 60 1/2 Stanley and never mess with the mouth. But that's a question for anther day. In any case, I often wonder how much the preference for certain tools is a reflection of usefulness--which can vary over time--or just fashion.

As to the first question, its because everyone touts low angle, and we all know why we like them, I have several, but a standard angle has its place as Allen mentions above.

As to the mouth, it can help when dealing with certain grain patterns, thin shavings and tight mouth can help tame tearout.  But in the majority of use cases, a well tuned and adjusted 220 or 9 1/4 with a fixed mouth does just fine.  A sharp iron is more important than anything else; again to remember that a plane is just a jig to hold an edge tool, and if the edge tool is not sharp, or sharpened properly for the use (i.e., microbevels when needed), you will be disappointed every time.

[Adnick]

Have a small West German made wooden one, name excapes me but most of you know the brand, and I use it all the time as a small smoother, works great.

Andy-- mos maiorum

[Axehandle]

If I had two block planes they would both be low angle. One iron ground at 25 and one ground at 33 with another iron ground at 38 in reserve. That way I could mark the irons and not worry which plane to put the iron into.

Really though, I would not use a high angle plane unless it had a tote.