#8
In response to my earlier post regarding the band saw bearing freeze, I had commented that I often  tuned up other large tools in the shop during down time or before major projects.  The blade adjustment on the table saw had been getting a bit stiff, so it's time on the box had come.

First step was to remove everything, the blade, the fence, and the rest.  Then I vacuumed out all the saw dust and the chunks not collected by the large dust collector.  I never have had perfect dust collection, but it was greatly improved by the two 1/4" wooden panels I added to the back of the cabinet to more fully enclose the area below the table... once I got that done, there was a whole lot less mess behind the saw. 
Big Grin  I simply made my measurements, and added rare earth magnets in two spots on each panel to make them easy to remove and reinstall for cabinet clean out and blade changes.
   
(Obviously, this is an old photo from my files... not one with the saw cleaned and buffed. 
Cool  But, you can see the thin wooden panels enclosing the back of the cabinet.)


I used a spray dry lube to lube the mechanism to raise and lower the blade, AND to tilt the blade.  Sprayed the appropriate areas, then ran the gizmo up and down and tilted full travel twice.  Much improved.  Repeated the process.  Super improved, and smooth as silk.  That spray dry lube doesn't hold sawdust and grime the way a grease would.

While I had the table saw in "Maintenance Mode," I buffed the table with scotch brite, then applied a coat of turtle wax, then buffed her out.  Slick as owl (ahhhh) snot. 
Laugh   I rechecked the blade to make sure it was square to the guide slots in the table, then the fence to assure that it was still square to the blade.  Hadn't moved.  Good to go when I start making boxes...
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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#9
Stupid question.  The fence on your saw...is it stock or did you add it at a later date?

I have an older Craftsman table saw and although old and it has it's quirks I like it other than the stock fence it came with.  It also has a 2hp direct drive motor.

I just tuned my saw up last week.  I use furniture wax on mine...maybe car wax works better?
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#10
That's the stock jet fence, I just had to adjust it.
I use turtle wax as it goes on easily, buffs out well even if you let it dry, and lasts.
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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#11
(09-15-2018, 07:01 PM)BrokenOlMarine Wrote: That's the stock jet fence, I just had to adjust it.
I use turtle wax as it goes on easily, buffs out well even if you let it dry, and lasts.

Car wax has silicone in it, can cause issues with finishes if it transfers to the stock.  Personally I avoid it and use plain old Johnson's wax in the yellow can, works well.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#12
I have never had an issue with it in all the years I have used it, but likely because of the followup process of three to four steps before applying finishes. Card scrapers, or molding planes, then at least two grades of sand paper. Finally wiped down with mineral spirits prior to applying finish to check for scratches or blemish, and remove dust and oils and sweat from my hands.

However, why risk it?  I will look for contaminate free wax next trip out. 
Big Grin
Jim in Okie
You can tell a lot about the character of a man -
By the way he treats those who can do nothing for him.
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#13
I use a mixture of BLO and paraffin wax, about 50-50.
Steve

Mo.



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The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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Table Saw Tune Up


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