#21
Hi all,

My Yorkcraft YC-8J again. It goes out of alignment every couple of years. I have always been able to dial it back in fairly easily (tediously, but without difficulty). I started getting snipe a couple of days ago. 

I have never had any amount of snipe with this jointer. I will say that again: never. None. For some reason, after extensive dialing-in, I am getting snipe at the trailing end. It matches half of the cutter head, and I can hear it happening as the last of the board heads over the cutters. I cannot fathom why. 

I took the outfeed table off, cleaned and lubed it, reassembled. I added a few shims to bring it more coplanar with the infeed table than it has ever been. The cutters are 0.002" above the outfeed at one edge, and a little under 0.001" at the other. Neither table is twisted or sagging appreciably. This always used to work.

When I face-jointed some test boards, I concentrated on keep pressure on the outfeed table,and have the rear push block an couple of inches from the rear to ensure I wasn't pushing the end of the board down. I am taking a very shallow cut.


Edit: I have a Byrd head on this, so no knives to adjust.

This is driving me nuts. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#22
snipe on leading or trailing edge of the board?  (I assume trailing?)
How much snipe are you getting?

Have you confirmed all of your blades are at the same height?

The old test I used to do was take a small scrap (~1x1x5), mark a line about 2" in, and line that up with the edge of the outfeed table.  With the jointer unplugged, rotate the cutterhead and see how far the wood shifts when it is picked up by the knife.  Do this at front/back of each blade and with all blades.  This was a very practical setup method that worked well for confirming an even setup.

Matt
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#23
(09-07-2020, 03:04 PM)mdhills Wrote: snipe on leading or trailing edge of the board?  (I assume trailing?)
How much snipe are you getting?

Have you confirmed all of your blades are at the same height?

The old test I used to do was take a small scrap (~1x1x5), mark a line about 2" in, and line that up with the edge of the outfeed table.  With the jointer unplugged, rotate the cutterhead and see how far the wood shifts when it is picked up by the knife.  Do this at front/back of each blade and with all blades.  This was a very practical setup method that worked well for confirming an even setup.

Matt

Thank you. Trailing edge, catching the last bit of the cutter head.

That is more or less what I did, except I used a machinist's square at various locations.

I edited my OP to indicate that I have a Byrd head. There is no issue of knives being set incorrectly. Wish is could be that simple.

The last test board was hardwood, thick enough not to vibrate or bend, and I got about 0.004" deep. I realize many people will laugh that off and say move on, but I would like to eliminate it. I think it varies and is deeper on some boards. I don't like new problems creeping in.

Thanks again for your questions and suggestion, much appreciated.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#24
I also verified that the cutter head is clamped down tightly. it is.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
Reply
#25
(09-07-2020, 04:09 PM)Aram Wrote: Thank you. Trailing edge, catching the last bit of the cutter head.

That is more or less what I did, except I used a machinist's square at various locations.

I edited my OP to indicate that I have a Byrd head. There is no issue of knives being set incorrectly. Wish is could be that simple.

The last test board was hardwood, thick enough not to vibrate or bend, and I got about 0.004" deep. I realize many people will laugh that off and say move on, but I would like to eliminate it. I think it varies and is deeper on some boards. I don't like new problems creeping in.

Thanks again for your questions and suggestion, much appreciated.

Are the infeed and outfeed tables parallel to each other ?  Roly
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#26
If the tables are truly coplaner then I would say your outfeed table is too low, despite what your measurements suggest.  

John
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#27
(09-07-2020, 06:15 PM)jteneyck Wrote: If the tables are truly coplaner then I would say your outfeed table is too low, despite what your measurements suggest.  

John

This may well be. The outfeed table seems to settle a couple thou after I lock it down. Never had to battle with it this much, but that just might be it.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
Reply
#28
You've checked everything I would have thought to be the problem and they look good, so I'm stumped. But try taking a slightly deeper cut and see if anything changes (this is my shot in the dark).
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#29
Any chance that you got some sawdust jammed under your cutters?
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

A wish for you all:  May you keep buying green bananas.
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#30
If I am reading this correctly, it sounds as if the board is dropping into the cutter as it leaves the in feed table. So I would go with the suggestion that the out feed is too low.  I am no jointer expert though.
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Jointer snipe help please


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