#12
I'm turning a platter for LOML out of Box Elder. I didn't notice this when I cut the blank, but there is a punky area that will be on the bottom. It's ~2.5" long by ~3/8" wide at it's widest point and goes from near the edge in toward the center. I'm toying with filling it with CA and then sanding, but wanted a second opinion before I do anything.

BTW, I'm essentially finished with the bottom.

Thanks.
"73 is the best number because it's the 21st prime number, and it's mirror 37 is the 12th prime number, whose mirror 21 is the product of 7 times 3. Also in binary 73 is 1001001, which is a palindrome." - Nobel Laureate, Dr. Sheldon Cooper
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#13
I think the CA glue with saw dust will work fine, but it may require multiple applications as you turn depending on how open the punky area is and how deep it will penetrate. I seem to recall there are some penetrating epoxy like products that my father used to use on wooden boats that experienced some rot. Unfortunately he passed last year so I cant ask what it was but if I can figure it out I’ll send you a PM.
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#14
What he said...You can also choose to try to hide it with it's own shavings ground into a powered or you can accent it with something that will stand out. Sometimes, trying to hide it makes it show. It's all up to you which way you might want to go. Some will use finely ground coffee grounds with CA too.
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#15
You say it's punky. Does it completely fill the area, but is just too soft? If so, you might consider wood hardener. You just paint it on until it absorbs as much as it can. The carrier evaporates quickly and leaves a resin behind. Available at your local big box store.
"Mongo only pawn in game of life."        Mongo
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#16
This would be an example and I believe most everyone's go to for wood stabilizer. You can do a lot of things with these products. You might need a vacuum pot but those are easy. Most use a pressure pot with a pump.



https://www.turntex.com/product/cactus-j...n-and-dyes

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half...66839.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vac...61245.html
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#17
While Cactus juice might be a great solution, it is an expensive one. That stuff is nearly $100 a gallon. Add the time and money for a vacuum pot and source of vacuum, as well as an oven you are willing to put to this use, and it becomes a very expensive proposition.

Minwax wood hardener runs a tad less than $13 for a pint, and is available at your local Lowes, or Varathane brand at HD for the same amount. A pint should be enough to take care of this job and have plenty leftover for future projects. It is designed to harden rotten wood, but will not fill voids. Of course, neither will the Cactus Juice.

Full disclosure, I have not used it for this application yet. I did use it to help stabilize some knife scales to prevent water from soaking into the wood when the knives were washed. I'm not sure this was the best choice for this application, but I was impressed with the ease of use, and it really seems to harden the wood it is applied to. I tried it on a test piece of punky wood, and it took wood that just sort of came apart when trying to cut it with a carving gouge by hand, to something that cut just like good solid wood.
"Mongo only pawn in game of life."        Mongo
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#18
I haven't used any if them. I'm just now getting back into turning. A vacuum tank will allow you to do a whole lot of other tings.
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#19
(02-11-2021, 05:16 PM)sniper Wrote: I'm turning a platter for LOML out of Box Elder.  I didn't notice this when I cut the blank, but there is a punky area that will be on the bottom.  It's ~2.5" long by ~3/8" wide at it's widest point and goes from near the edge in toward the center.  I'm toying with filling it with CA and then sanding, but wanted a second opinion before I do anything.  

BTW, I'm essentially finished with the bottom.

Thanks.

All kinds of answers to the problem, IF it's structural, which it seems, by your posts, it is not.  At 3/8 wide, it shouldn't make any difference structurally unless its a secant to your hold.  Turn, sand, enjoy.  All you need to do is harden it with final finish.  Won't ever match in texture, but shellac or poly soak, cure, then final finish gives an entirely adequate imitation.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#20
Thanks all for your replies. I went ahead and used multiple coats of CA glue on this section and am happy with it. It's on the bottom, so not as noticeable. This area was filled with soft wood with some gap between the sides to the hardwood, so I would have had to fill with CA there anyway.

I had to run to the Borg to get some more CA and when I did, I also picked up can of Varathane Wood Hardener. Good I did, I noticed a few small areas on the top that were soft. I poured a little of the WH on and was able to finish the top without any problems. The stuff left the area slightly darker, but after putting a coat of finish on this morning, you can't see it.
"73 is the best number because it's the 21st prime number, and it's mirror 37 is the 12th prime number, whose mirror 21 is the product of 7 times 3. Also in binary 73 is 1001001, which is a palindrome." - Nobel Laureate, Dr. Sheldon Cooper
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#21
I would try wood hardener or maybe a waterbourne poly to stiffen the fibers.. Anything else is too expensive to be used for a bowl that can be tossed and another turned to replace it.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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