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09-23-2021, 05:31 AM
(This post was last modified: 09-23-2021, 05:36 AM by KyleD.
Edit Reason: added last sentence
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<p>Wedging a round tenon is not always a good fix for a poor fit. You may want to look at glueing on some veneer and fixing the fit. </p><p>If you decide to use wedges on a 2" round tenon I would suggest using double wedges due to the large tenon size.</p><p>As far as should the wedges be smooth- I would say it doesn't really matter as long as the roughness isn't so bad it causes the wedge to break when being pounded in. </p>
I would make the kerfs fairly deep and close to the other side. 4 degrees is a fairly shallow angle and you are working on a large tenon.
Proud maker of large quantities of sawdust......oh, and the occasional project!
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<p>Thanks. I'm not positive on the fit yet, but will definitely go the veneer route if it ends up being too loose. I cut the tenons first (probably shouldn't have done that), and they were made by hand, not a lathe, so they are not perfectly round. I had a sample mortise, but it was cut in thicker wood. I glued and wedged up a spare leg in that and it is solid. But when I cut the first mortise in the actual batten (angled, in thinner wood) and tried one of the legs, it wasn't as tight, which has me concerned a bit. But it wasn't loose either. Once all the mortises are cut I can try each leg and see if I need to add veneer.</p><p><br></p><p>By a double tenon I assume you mean two that are offset parallel to each other, as opposed to one straight down the middle?</p><p><br></p><p>Mark<br></p>
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I use wedges off the bandsaw without smoothing. I make them slightly wider than the tenon so they lock into the mortise sides. I also read somewhere to only put glue on one side of the wedge. Don't remember the reasoning, but it seems to work just fine for me. I cut the slot almost the length of the tenon, but not so deep that you would see it from below.
If the tenons are a loose fit, I would look at gluing on some veneer as already mentioned and trimming down to a good fit.
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<p>
(09-22-2021, 07:12 PM)msweig Wrote: </p><p><br></p><p>Any other suggestions/things I should take into consideration?<br></p><p>
</p><p><br></p><p>Orient the tenon so its face grain matches face grain of the other piece, and slot across the quarter.</p><p><br></p><p>Don't know the plans, but where strength has to count, a slightly oversize tenon shaved octagonal and used as a trenail is how I start. </p>
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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09-24-2021, 06:20 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-24-2021, 06:22 PM by bhh.)
<p>Is that the one shown here? <a href="https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/09/24/tour-of-our-library-and-the-new-bathroom/">LAP tour</a></p>
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<p>Yep. That one. Though I'm skipping the drawer (for now), curly maple top (likely finished with shellac), and poplar (painted black) for the legs. </p>