#17
Recently acquired a new-to-me cabinet saw that had a cast iron router wing.  I'd like to put a router plate & fence on my Christmas list.

What's everyone recommend for a 9" x 12" plate?  I see the usual suspects from Kreg, Rousseau, MLCS, Bench Dog, Rockler, etc. 

Do you have to have aluminum or is phenolic OK, especially if it's thick phenolic?  I don't need a lift.

I'm not a huge router table user, but do have a DW618 that I'd use with it.  Probably leave the fixed base attached to the plate, but usually store the router in the case, so sag shouldn't be an issue.
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#18
Even if your not worried about sag, I'd choose aluminum, and given your plan make sure it has inserts...especially one that has no hole. That would allow you to NOT loose things that fall through said hole. It also keeps out the saw dust and other things. Still, I don't think you;ll be able to buy just any router plate since there aren't standard dimensions, and don't overlook the needed thickness as well.. Do you know the brand of the wing?
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#19
fredhargisEven if your not worried about sag, I'd choose aluminum, and given your plan make sure it has inserts...especially one that has no hole. That would allow you to NOT loose things that fall through said hole. It also keeps out the saw dust and other things. Still, I don't think you;ll be able to buy just any router plate since there aren't standard dimensions, and don't overlook the needed thickness as well.. Do you know the brand of the wing?

Fred is right about dimensions. A wood/laminate top's dimensions can be resized fairly easily. Cast iron? No so easy. You could cut a plate down - phenolic or aluminum - but there's no practical way I know of to make it bigger. MLCS and Peachtree sell a cast iron table saw extension. Peachtree's router plate is 9 1/4" X 11 3/4", MLCS 9 1/32" X 12 3/32".
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#20
I would stick with aluminum but phenolic seems to have good creep resistance so that's a possibility.

phenolic creep
Cellulose runs through my veins!
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#21
Plywood and make your own. Then you can make it any size of shape you want. I recessed the router in mine to keep it from being to thick. Works perfectly and free to boot.
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#22
(10-22-2021, 09:54 PM)DieselDennis Wrote: Recently acquired a new-to-me cabinet saw that had a cast iron router wing.  I'd like to put a router plate & fence on my Christmas list.

What's everyone recommend for a 9" x 12" plate?  I see the usual suspects from Kreg, Rousseau, MLCS, Bench Dog, Rockler, etc. 

Do you have to have aluminum or is phenolic OK, especially if it's thick phenolic?  I don't need a lift.

I'm not a huge router table user, but do have a DW618 that I'd use with it.  Probably leave the fixed base attached to the plate, but usually store the router in the case, so sag shouldn't be an issue.

I have a cast iron wing router table with an aluminum plate.

I would really consider a router lift.  I have a "Router Raizer" for mine, a much cheaper alternative to an expensive lift, I really like the ease of adjusting the bit height.  The biggest weakness to my system is the inserts to the router plate.  They are plastic and not always as flat as can be.  In my next life, I would go for a locking insert.
A carpenter's house is never done.
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#23
(10-28-2021, 04:24 PM)photobug Wrote: I have a cast iron wing router table with an aluminum plate.

I would really consider a router lift.  I have a "Router Raizer" for mine, a much cheaper alternative to an expensive lift, I really like the ease of adjusting the bit height.  The biggest weakness to my system is the inserts to the router plate.  They are plastic and not always as flat as can be.  In my next life, I would go for a locking insert.

The Kreg aluminum plate and lift is pretty good value for the money. Once you have a router lift, it is just so much easier to make adjustments above the table. I've had mine for over a year now and no complaints. I prototype a lot of things out of MDF and while I do have dust extraction, that stuff gets everywhere. The lift mechanism seems to be very tolerant of the dust. I've used the Woodpecker branded lift (I think they have multiple models so I can't say exactly which) and it had a real problem with a fine thread on the shaft and mating nut clogging and jamming.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#24
I have a dedicated router table with a lift and all the bells and whistles but I also have a cheapie blue aluminum plate from rockler with an extra base attached mounted in the wing on my table saw.  I use it for larger projects (have a 52 inch biesmeyer) so its a big surface area, and I can use the backside of the table saw fence as a router fence if I wish.  Its also nice to not have to change up the settings on my dedicated router table if I need to do a one off in the middle of a project.  Mine has the standard 1 inch hole in it, which I personally have never had an issue with.  It works fine and was relatively inexpensive.
"Oh. Um, l-- look, i-- i-- if we built this large wooden badger" ~ Sir Bedevere
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#25
I've got 6 of the Rockler anodized 1/4" aluminum plates.
Very solid plates
Steve

Missouri






 
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
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#26
I have a Rockler aluminum plate.  I mounted it on my table saw.  Works well.

I do recommend a power switch with a big red paddle for "Stop!".  Not very expensive and a good safety option.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002C4...UTF8&psc=1

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