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Jim, on my upper case, I just used plywood for the back ( I think, I started around the same time as you and finished it a few years later ). If you are going to use solid wood, then you can use separate boards and tongue and groove them. Elongated holes would also work.
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I'me sure I saw someone put a bead board back on a similar cabinet just using brads...one in the center of each board. You could leave a small aount of wiggle room between the boards. A 4" wide board isn'tgoing to move that much anyway. As i think about the brads...it almost had to be one of Norm's projects.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Jim,
Floating tongue and groove has served me well on the few pieces I've built that required backs but you've already beaded the boards. Splined joints maybe?
At any rate, hang in there. Completing it as an antique is secondary to the satisfaction of completing an awesome project.
Take care, Gary
I've only had one...in dog beers.
"You can see the stars and still not see the light"
The Eagles: Already Gone
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What type of panel? If it is tongue and groove boards, just leave a little space to allow for movement. If the pieces are not too wide, you can get away with one screw per board per side.
If it is a frame and panel back, I would not worry about movement.
I normally use small slotted brass screws to install the back panels regardless of type of panel.
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Have you cosidered frame and panel? Works for me.
IMG_4469 by
Hank Knight, on Flickr
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I guess I'll go with elongated holes with sheet metal self tapping screws. Thanks everyone for your suggestions & encouragement.
Jim
Jim
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01-04-2022, 09:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-04-2022, 09:38 PM by adamcherubini.)
Come on. Do it the old fashioned way. Just nail some boards to the back. I think the nails usually give seasonally. Do it the old way and have a story to tell.