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03-05-2022, 01:07 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-05-2022, 01:10 PM by MichaelMouse.)
Use a pin-type marking gage to score. Score, remove waste, repeat.
Watch not to work upgrain when scoring.
I'd use a router after scoring. What I've found acceptable in the past. If you're an anti-electron fanatic, make a scratch stock.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Boat builders do this all the time, and will often use a gouge after marking the limits of the rebate/rabbet to remove the bulk of the waste, before refining it with chisels.
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Interesting question. Here is an excerpt from LN website on the use of their large router plane for curved work: I've never tried it but it might be worth a shot?
'Use the fence to guide the tool along an edge — the concave end of the fence is for curved work."
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Location: Perth, Australia
The issue with rebating on a curve or circle/ellipse is that the grain will limit what you want to do. There is the danger of it running out, running in, as well as sections where it is benign.
To prevent spelching or breaking out, the boundary lines must be distinct. Cut the wood fibres with a knife. Create a knife wall. Use a chisel to get down to the depth of the knife line. Work it progressively deeper. If you finish with a router plane, take very light cuts. Watch the grain direction.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Thanks everyone. Unfortunately the project is on hold. I realized that the piece of glass I have as a bull nosed edge. If I set it in a rebate the curve of the bull nose and the straight wall of the rebate will come together and leave a groove open which will look lousy and collect dirt in it. So, back to the drawing board... Again, thanks. -Howard
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03-12-2022, 10:07 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-12-2022, 10:09 PM by adamcherubini.)
Not covering the edge of the glass at all? I think you should have a little applied ovolo or the like.
The tool you want is a coach or carriage makers router. It looks like a spoke shave, but has a fence and a blade like a router.
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03-13-2022, 08:34 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-13-2022, 08:35 AM by Derek Cohen.)
Hi Adam
You are referring to a croze. I raised this on another forum. It occurred to me then that barrels are made of staves, and that this would involve short sections of cross grain. I imagine that run out would not be an issue in that situation. The rebate on an oval or round made of a single piece would not be as friendly.
Regards from Perth
Derek
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Seems to me, a Stanley No. 71 or 71-1/2 would work...after a CUTTING gauge was run along the edge....
Or, just chuck up a piloted Rebate bit into a router...and let the bearing follow the curves...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that