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I am making 4 raised panel boxes, and learning a lot along the way. I'm not sure what you would call them. Too big for a bread box, too small for a blanket chest. One of the 2 walnut boxes is done, except for the lid support, which I don't have yet. I'm not sure what the pictures will show, but it is what it is.[attachment=43399][attachment=43400][attachment=43401][attachment=43402][attachment=43403]I'm not sure I like the oak banding at the corners. I don't think the other walnut box will get that. I actually meant to use maple. A brain fart.[attachment=43404]I like the inlay in the top, but again, it was suppose to be maple.
I have an oak box ready for finish. I'll post it in a couple of days.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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You're certainly busy in the shop, love the box. The maple would have looked better (IMHO) than the oak, maple goes really well with walnut. Looking forwasd to seeing the next one. Well done!
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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(07-17-2022, 06:33 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: I am making 4 raised panel boxes, and learning a lot along the way. I'm not sure what you would call them. Too big for a bread box, too small for a blanket chest. One of the 2 walnut boxes is done, except for the lid support, which I don't have yet. I'm not sure what the pictures will show, but it is what it is.I'm not sure I like the oak banding at the corners. I don't think the other walnut box will get that. I actually meant to use maple. A brain fart.I like the inlay in the top, but again, it was suppose to be maple.
I have an oak box ready for finish. I'll post it in a couple of days.
How are the sides joined to the front and back (corner joint)? The box is nicely proportioned with attractive grain selection. I am not fond of the contrasting wood corners. If you build another consider paneled sides and solid front and back. Thanks for posting.
Case pieces are the basis for lots of useful furniture pieces. To rapidly move you up the learning curve for case pieces (chest of drawers for example) you need a class where a case piece is built. But choose wisely. The class needs to be taught with emphasis on acquiring skills and not so much on returning with a completed piece. And the instruction is best from someone that has earned a living putting product out the door. Their techniques will be practical and reliable.
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Nice job. Actually, a great job on the grain selection. The inlay is a very nice touch. I like contrast, but not so much on the corners of this chest. Building four boxes just for the experience is noteworthy. Walnut is too expensive for me to use for practice builds.
Looks like a satin finish; what did you use?
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How are the sides joined to the front and back (corner joint)?
The corners are simply glued. I tried dowels but they lined up miserably. I thought about biscuits, but according to those in the know, biscuits add no strength to a joint. A while back I built this miniature barristers bookcase[attachment=43411]
I built this as practice for the full sized book case. My wife like the walnut dowels in the corners. They actually do hide screws. Maybe I will copy this on the other oak box.
Looks like a satin finish; what did you use?
Three coats of Minwax wipe on poly. Clear Satin. Sanded with 600 between each coat. Then sanded with 1000, and waxed with paste wax, twice.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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(07-17-2022, 03:11 PM)Gregor1 Wrote: How are the sides joined to the front and back (corner joint)?
The corners are simply glued. I tried dowels but they lined up miserably. I thought about biscuits, but according to those in the know, biscuits add no strength to a joint. A while back I built this miniature barristers bookcase
I built this as practice for the full sized book case. My wife like the walnut dowels in the corners. They actually do hide screws. Maybe I will copy this on the other oak box.
Looks like a satin finish; what did you use?
Three coats of Minwax wipe on poly. Clear Satin. Sanded with 600 between each coat. Then sanded with 1000, and waxed with paste wax, twice.
Someone I learned woodworking from advocated that a piece of furniture should hold itself together through the use of proper jonery. The glue is there just to make the structure rigid. Follow this advice and you will make long lasting furniture. Learn to design and construct with dovetails and mortise and tenon. You motivation will quickly get you to where you are making fine furniture if you head in the right direction. Keep stretching the challenge. You have panels mastered. Time to add mortise and tenon or dovetails.
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How are the sides joined to the front and back (corner joint)?
Now you have me wondering about this. Is the glue alone not sufficient? Is there something else I should be doing to the corners?
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
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07-18-2022, 10:15 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-18-2022, 10:17 AM by rwe2156.)
(07-18-2022, 06:43 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: How are the sides joined to the front and back (corner joint)?
Now you have me wondering about this. Is the glue alone not sufficient? Is there something else I should be doing to the corners? Don't worry about it, you've got long grain to long grain it's never coming apart. And if you believe Mr. Sullivan's data on end grain, you're ok there, too.
The main reason for joinery here would be alignment. Biscuits would work. A tongue and groove is also a good way to join stiles @ 90°
Another option would be a miter and spline.
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(07-18-2022, 06:43 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: How are the sides joined to the front and back (corner joint)?
Now you have me wondering about this. Is the glue alone not sufficient? Is there something else I should be doing to the corners?
Have you ever seen a box built by simply gluing the corners together with a butt joint? Likely not. It is a simple way to make a box, so why not, ask yourself. The survival of your box will depend on the strength provided by the bottom. Without the bottom the resistance to racking is provided only by the splitting strength of the oak corner. Oak is especially weak in this regard because oak splints easily along the rays.
That said, as a decorative piece the box will be fine. It will not be subjected to destructive forces sitting on a shelf.
If asked to design a box with paneled sides the corners would be posts or legs, top and bottom there would be rails mortised into the posts and the panel would be framed by the posts and rails. This construction would accommodate wood movement and the M&T of rail to post would be structurally strong and rigid. If I had in mind learning to make fine furniture I would acquire the means of dovetailing something like a box either with a Keller jig or by learning to hand saw them.
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The glued edges of that are long grain to long grain, it will be plenty strong.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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