#12
I have had a jigsaw for 20 years. Tried to use it once or twice, could never cut straight with it. Tired with different blades, even expensive Bosch blades, still unable to cut well with it. The problem is: even if I use a guide, the blade starts to live its on life and tends to wander, and the result is: it will start pulling the saw from the guide or towards the guide and make the saw get stuck. Even if I don't push hard.

My saw is a cheap saw, the own brand of a local department store. For a long time I thought it is the price of my saw that is the source of problems, so I planned once I have enough money I will buy a pro one to try that.

Recently it happened I needed a jigsaw for a specific task, so started experimenting with them and collecting info. In this project I need to cut curves (some are quite small) and straight lines. BY experimenting, in the end I managed to find a method that helps me to cut acceptable straight lines and larger curves. It is a bit time consuming but works: I sit in front of the saw, pulling it towards myself, and I push a little, then loosen, push and loosen. On every push I advance about 1/25". So this is very slow, but with this method I can cut along the line, and I can do so regardless of the quality or purpose of the blade. But small curves are still a problem.

So I decided to go and check the expensive jigsaws in a store. I observed them, and I found they have similar mechanism like my cheap jigsaw. Actually, apart from the higher price, some of them doesn't really look more advanced than mine. For example the Black&Decker seems to be very similar, yet it's much more expensive. So this raised the question for me: will I be able to work better with the expensive ones at all?

The other problem is that I purchased some of those tinier blandes that are for cutting curves. I tried cutting small curves with them, and it doesn't work. The saw cannot maintain the curve, I am unable to follow the line, the saw is staying away from the curve, and cuts a larger curve every time no matter how hard I push towards the curve. And most of the time if I push hard to make it follow the curve it starts burning the wood. Considering more expensive jigsaws have similar mechanism like mine, I wonder if buying a more expensive one will help this at all? I already have Bosch blades, so I wonder if a saw with a similar mechanism will perform better, if I already have the good blades?

I had been thinking okay, maybe these saws cannot cut small curves at all, but then I found this video. Check it from 9:42:



I need to cut the exact same curves, and as you see he is cutting perfectly straight without a guide and can cut the small curves like charm. My saw is struggling with larger curves already, even with Bosch blades. 

So what's the trick here? Is it only that he has a Dewalt jigsaw, or it is more than that? Can buying a pro jigsaw solve all these problems at once or it is more complicated that that?
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#13
I was having a lot of problems with blade deflection when cutting out a countertop, and switched from my old (skil or B&D) jigsaw to a bosch.  This was significantly better, although definitely still not as clean as a tablesaw.

The bosch blades are pretty good -- definitely need to match the blade to the type of cut you are doing.
The bosch also has a pretty good roller bearing support behind the blade.  I dont' recall if my old saw had this.
But the biggest thing is technique -- not forcing the cut and being very aware of where your cutting point is so that you can get smooth curves.

The guy doing the drums is getting very good results; I do see a tiny bit of wobble in a few of the straight cuts, but still quite nice.

Matt
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#14
Better quality saws do cut better, smoother and more accurate. That being said, deflection happens. Blades are important as well.  I'd recommend a barrel grip model for more control, the Bosch (JS572EBK) and Makita (JS572EBK) are both high quality and worth it.  Oh, always corded, not cordless.  Festool sells one too, but I'm not a green guy....
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#15
I had a Master Mechanic (Ace or True Value house brand) for a few decades--and based on that experience couldn't conceive how anyone could use one for any degree of accuracy. Then, one day several years ago i caught a returned Bosch barrel for a great price at a Home Depot--whole different world. Then, just a few years ago, i ran across a mostly unused Festool--a great price, and i had made some money flipping some other tool--really a nice tool. Still have to watch my technique to minimize blade deflection, but like the only other green kool-aid tool i have (random orbital sander)--the smoothness of the tool means i don't have to fight the tool so all i have to do is take care of my technique.
Summary--makes a difference. But it costs money. But-but deals exist, be ready.
earl
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#16
Barrel grip saws are amazing; don't understand why more companies don't offer them.  That being said, I'm a huge fan of my cordless Makita.  Top quality blades are worth the money IMHO.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#17
IME, blades often don't cut straight, I mean in the direction you think they would. There may be a slight difference in tooth grind, blade angle in the holder or guide that causes it to at an angle to the saw direction. Same thing happens with bandsaws, know as blade drift. One Just has to 'feel' for that preferred cut direction and account for it.

That said, quality tools and blades do make that much easier to do. I have a DeWalt and it is a great saw, but I would prefer a barrel grip.
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#18
Buy the best saw from bosch, and the best blades. You won't regret it.
Steve

Mo.



I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24


 
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WaterlooMark 02/9/2020








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#19
One of the first tools I bought about 60 years ago was a variable-speed Craftsman jigsaw, which is still in use.  This is a BIG sucker with a pivoting blade mechanism that can be locked in the forward direction or allowed to pivot depending on which sideways pressure you apply or by turning a knob on top.  It took a while to get the hang of the pivot idea, but the key is to go SLOW.  As above, wander or warp when cutting thicker material is a problem for any thin blade fixed on only one end.  Some hollow-ground blades I found somewhere do help.

 BTW, I have an Olson fret-style coping saw with 12" throat that I use for really intricate cuts and curves.
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#20
+1 on the Bosch, great saw.
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#21
Thanks for the suggestions!

The other problem I have with these saws is the difficulty to observe the blade and the cut. I have to lean over quite much to be able to osberve what's happening. This is definately much easier when I use the technique I mentioned: sit in front of the saw and pulling it towards me (that may be an incorrect approach but does work). So how do you do it? Some of these saws have a base plate that makes only limited visibility to the blade, some, especially cheaper ones have much more space at the bottom to look though. How can you observe the blade effectively?

Could you also recommend (maybe link) a blade that is suitable for hardwood? I need to cut black locust planks 3/4" thick. I found some better performing blades, but I'd be interested in your suggestions. The guy in the video I linked in the first post is cutting hardwood boards with similar dimensions. In some other videos they cut rosewood instead, they seem to be able to maintain a straight cut, so I guess it is possible to replicate the process on black locust as well as it is less denser than rosewood. Where I live the shopkeepers are not very familiar with different type of saw blades.
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Cheap or Expensive Jigsaw - does it matter?


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