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Zach,
Looks like a complicated build. Lots of pictures (and videos) would be fascinating and educational for most of us. Can't wait.
Steve
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Zach,
I think that the reason the outer panels look larger is that this is a perspective view and not a true orthographic projection.
See ya around,
Dominic
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Don't you love it when you ask someone what time it is and to prove how smart they are, they tell you how to build a watch?
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Zach, are you removing the carving on the gooseneck molding? (I'd assume not) It looks like maybe the side molding we can see on the picture of the original might not be original. If it is, it looks a bit crude compared to the gooseneck. Know you can do better.
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The panel of the entablature, between the goosenecks, needs something.
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Blacky's Boy said:
Zach,
I think that the reason the outer panels look larger is that this is a perspective view and not a true orthographic projection.
+1. Looking at the Sketchup briefly, the "bonnet" seems a bit too tall to me compared to what I'd expect the original to look like.
And I assume Zach just didn't want to figure out how to get Sketchup to mimic the carving, that's why that detail is missing from the drawing. The drawing to me would be just for getting proportions and maybe exploring joinery issues.
p.s.
On second thought, through the magic of dual monitors and some image scaling, maybe the proportion of the bonnet isn't so far out between the photo and Sketchup.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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I do not believe the bonnet proportions are perfect according to the original, but they are pretty close. As close as I'm likely to get without paying the $20,000 that the antiques dealer wanted for it.
And I will be doing the molding / carving per the photo. I just didn't worry about it in the sketchup. I'm not usually a sketchup user, but it is pretty handy for getting rough proportions for work like this.
Also, I realized I made a mistake. I made the case too shallow, having misplaced my copy of AFA with the dimensions in it. I had to add a couple of inches to the case depth, making it 11 3/4" overall.
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Hi,
Me too, I am interested to follow your project, mainly for sash door construction. What wood you will use?
Ciao
Giuliano
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Usually I am not much into replica's from antique furniture, but I like this one a lot. When you do a writeup of the build, I am very interested too.
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I made another couple of modifications. I think this is how I will actually build this piece.
I added a secret document drawer that pulls out from the right side of the top. The molding will actually be the drawer front. It could easily be done so that it opens from either side to suit your home.
The top will be permanently fixed, but this shows you how it works. The drawer itself will be locked with a sliding bar secret lock accessed by opening the door, then inserting a dowel into a small hole drilled into the top of the case, which will push a spring lock of my own design. I will have a more detailed drawing of that soon, maybe today.
As for wood, the original was made in spanish cedar (odd choice, I know). I would like to use that, but I have some nice wide cherry boards that are just calling out for a suitable project...
Zachary Dillinger
https://www.amazon.com/author/zdillinger
Author of "On Woodworking: Notes from a Lifetime at the Bench" and "With Saw, Plane and Chisel: Making Historic American Furniture With Hand Tools",
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That should be a fun project. I've always liked smaller display cabinets like that. It's much deeper than I would have expected. Love the secret drawer idea too.
I'm another one who would love to see the build.
Rodney