New Shop Door, I need a fresh viewpoint:
#21
Heat the garage - it looks small.


Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

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#22
Put a slider in on the garage side. Then, install a fixed storage panel or wall over it's open position if you need the storage space covered by the sliding door. Your basically building a pocket door without having to get into the wall cavity.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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#23
Quote:

If it were mine, I would reframe the opening and install a standard prehung door.




This or since you are a woodworker, build a door. Pretty simple to build a basic door. Of you could show off you skills and build something fancy,
I have found how much a boat is used is inversely related to how much it weighs.

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#24
If it was me I would be out there building Splinter Pullers idea right now. Easy concept and gives you all the benefits of having a door but not having to accommodate the swing into your garage or workshop. You can leave it open when you want to without having the door in the way and all you will be giving up is maybe a 6" by 48" or so bit of floor space in the garage.
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#25
Do you need the 4' opening to move material and equipment through ? Or is there a regular garage door for that ?

A 4 foot wide hinged door would swing a long way and might be cumbersome. A sliding barn door would waste hanging space on either side as you said, a pocket door would require demo , reframing and refinishing both sides.

If you have other access via a garage door, I'd just narrow the opening and install a 32 or 36" prehung door. If you need the big opening, I would build my own with a twist
A hinged 4' door frame that opens when you need the big opening. Inside that 4' hinged frame would be a 32 or 36" insulated door ( with a window if it were me) for everyday use. That way you get the convenience of the 4' opening when you need it and the practicality of a smaller standard door when you don't.
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#26
if it was me I would install two pocket doors in the walls.

that would be the most efficient, save the most space and solve the somewhat mis perceived issue of weight.

the down side is you will have to open the walls up to install the pocket door framing

I consider it a small price to pay
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#27
Lots of good ideas.
I agree with Paulmaine that I fire rated door may be required by code. I would check with your local building department first.
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#28
My shop iis divided into two rooms, one for handwork where I spend most time, and one for machines. I heat the former for comfort (about 65f for me as I suffer from Raynauds) and the latter just enough to prevent condensation and rust. There is no possibility of installing a sliding or pocket door so I have a sheet of large cell bubble wrap which hangs on one side of the opening, overlapping each side by an inch or two and with a lath attached to the bottom to weight it down. This "door" can be pushed aside for occasional access but I have another solution for summer or where continuous access is needed. This consists of two lenghts of aliminium channel which pass through the wall just above the frame header and are bent upwards at 90degon at each end but can slide through by about 4". The blind can then be rolled up and rested on the pieces of chamnel which form a cradle or pushed through the wall so that the upstanding section is flush with the wall to allow the blind to hang.

This is a very easy to make solution which is surprisingly effective at retaining heat, avoids space hogging hinged doors and is pretty convenient, even if it is not a "proper" door.

Jim
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#29
Wow!!! So many helpful ideas that they almost confuse me more. Thanks guys.
After sitting in my "Moaning Chair" (You all know what that vital piece of shop equipment is, Right?) and staring at the doorway, here are my current thoughts: Get two 24" solid core doors, cut out a 16" X 24" window opening in each one and utilize some double-acting hinges so that they can swing either way. A little storm door weather-stripping should make them fairly draft-proof. Total cost should be around $120.00.
BTW: local codes do not require fire doors as both areas are considered part of the garage.
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#30

OK, so I finally got off dead-center and did something. Here are the shop doors: 2X frames put together w/3/8" dowels and pocket screws to reinforce the joints. Used a hunk of Cypress for the threshold. Car siding for the panels and Lexan for the windows (which I am regretting already - scratches). They open into the shop. Now onto the next big thing; re-grouting the kitchen floor.
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