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(09-06-2016, 10:01 PM)MauleSkinner Wrote: Sounds like an old neighbor on the farm...somebody brought him an engine with an aluminum block and steel bolts holding the head. He rigged something with turnbuckles to hold constant pressure on the wrenches, and every day sprayed a little WD-40 on them and gave the turnbuckles a little bit of a twist. Lo and behold, six months later the bolts came loose!
Now that's patience.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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All of you may already know of it but the hardest for me was the threaded rod for the depth adjustment nut; hard to grip that is. I have been slipping a short piece of copper tubing over the rod then crushing it onto the shaft with vise grips. then the threads on the rod are protected while the vise grips turn the rod.
My two cents, worth price charged.
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(09-07-2016, 09:31 AM)HomerLee Wrote: All of you may already know of it but the hardest for me was the threaded rod for the depth adjustment nut; hard to grip that is. I have been slipping a short piece of copper tubing over the rod then crushing it onto the shaft with vise grips. then the threads on the rod are protected while the vise grips turn the rod.
My two cents, worth price charged.
That is a good tip. I generally use what is at hand, which is often a shoprag. It works but leaves pink cotton threads on the real threads. Must find some copper tubing. I'll bet the water supply line on a refrigerator ice maker is close to the right size. Time for some scavenging.
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Please visit my website
splintermaking.com
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Don't know about copper, but my hardware store has "hobby" tubing of various metals, in diameters going down to pretty darned small.
Liquid Wrench is available in pint and quart quantities, in addition to the rattle cans; I've immersed some small components (e.g., plane frog size) in a Liquid Wrench bath to increase the likelihood of penetration.
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(09-07-2016, 09:31 AM)HomerLee Wrote: All of you may already know of it but the hardest for me was the threaded rod for the depth adjustment nut; hard to grip that is. I have been slipping a short piece of copper tubing over the rod then crushing it onto the shaft with vise grips. then the threads on the rod are protected while the vise grips turn the rod.
My two cents, worth price charged.
(09-07-2016, 10:11 AM)JimReed@Tallahassee Wrote: That is a good tip. I generally use what is at hand, which is often a shoprag. It works but leaves pink cotton threads on the real threads. Must find some copper tubing. I'll bet the water supply line on a refrigerator ice maker is close to the right size. Time for some scavenging.
I keep an old leather belt in the shop just for that purpose, works great.
I also have had success with rusted screws douching 'em with Liquid Wrench, letting it sit over night, then using an cordless impact driver in reverse with a straight hex bit chucked up in it; as long as the head of the screw is sound you are ok; the hammer action of the impact driver loosens them up pretty well. Clamp down the work first and use two steady hands on the driver with downward pressure to keep the bit in the slot. Two short and light pulls of the trigger usually does it.
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