Posts: 1,422
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2004
Now if they would include a temp vs viscosity graph I would be set. Just nit picking. My shop is in the basement usually closer to 60F than 77F. With these GF products is does make a difference. At least they give you a starting place, better than some others.
Posts: 4,133
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Lawrence, KS
(09-14-2016, 01:57 PM)Bope Wrote: Now if they would include a temp vs viscosity graph I would be set. Just nit picking. My shop is in the basement usually closer to 60F than 77F. With these GF products is does make a difference. At least they give you a starting place, better than some others.
For a small temperature differential, I'd expect the viscosity change to be within the margin of error for using a #4 Ford cup anyway.
Otherwise, just pop the can of finish into the microwave for a minute. I'm sure it will be fine...
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
Posts: 64,687
Threads: 3
Joined: Feb 2007
Location: Merryland
(09-14-2016, 01:57 PM)Bope Wrote: Now if they would include a temp vs viscosity graph I would be set. Just nit picking. My shop is in the basement usually closer to 60F than 77F. With these GF products is does make a difference. At least they give you a starting place, better than some others.
Good luck. They want you to spray withing the temperature parameters they specify. What I find is that finishes lay out better in cooler temps than warm temps but they are thicker in cool temps and might require more reducer. I'm in a situation where I have to spray below freezing and near 100 deg so you learn to compensate. Even heat finishes prior to shooting. Never shoot in direct sunlight when it's hot out etc.
Posts: 12,888
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
A prime reason for having a viscosity cup is to be able to match the viscosity with the N/N choices you have for your gun. You may be able to use a particular finish straight from the can if you have an appropriate N/N. If you don't then you can adjust the viscosity to a N/N you do have while staying within the dilution guidelines, which can be critical for WB products.
WB products are often very unforgiving if you stray from the manuf. guidelines on dilution and temperature. If they say 10% max. dilution and 65 F min. temperature then you really need to follow those guidelines or risk problems, either immediately or, worse yet, later.
John
Posts: 20,866
Threads: 1
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Sioux Falls SD
(09-14-2016, 11:53 AM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Lots of good information in this thread.
The big reason I wanted a viscosity cup is that I build stuff using steel and want to paint it with oil-based enamels (like Rustoleum) and all they say is "thin up to X%" which leaves lots of room for oops.
And even using wood finishing stuff I'd like to know how one compares to another so I can know what to expect when I start shooting. One less variable is a step in the right direction when you're learning new techniques.
I spray Rustoleum oil enamel with my cheap conversion gun all the time. I just add about 10 percent acetone (as it says on the can). I've never had a problem with this ratio.
WoodNET... the new safespace
