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Certainly no expert, but have finished a couple of outdoor pieces recently. I built a table and bench for outdoor use and finished the top with GF Exterior 450 and painted the base black, distressed it, and then painted over the black with Olympic Exterior Base 5 with no color added.
The GF stuff I sprayed on with my Earlex 5500 and it went on like a dream. Absolutely no complaint about that stuff besides the $70 per gallon price tag.
For the base, I painted ont the Base 5 with a brush and roller. It looks just like a water based finish in the can and dries clear. Over the black paint, it was great, but just know that it does dry with a yellow tint. I tested it over some white paint and on bare pine and it yellowed both significantly.
I have used both of these methods recently, so I can't speak to their long term performance, but both were very easy to apply and look great on my projects.
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That's an interesting observation about the Olympic base #5. Was that oil based? I did the exact same thing with the exterior base #5 acrylic, tried it on bare wood (the paint paddle) and it dried water clear.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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It was this stuff. I will try and remember to get a picture when I get home.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Olympic-ONE-Bas...z/50162551
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I'm surprised that no one has mentioned deep base tint paint. Dries clear. Quite possibly your best option.
Thanks, Curt
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Not sure I mentioned it, this is great, used it on some white oak in WI, 2+ years ago, out side all the time and going strong. I might do a light sanding if needed this spring and reapply.
http://www.cabotstain.com/products/produ...r-Oil.html
KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE EQUALS WISDOM. RMB
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12-30-2016, 06:50 AM
(This post was last modified: 12-30-2016, 06:50 AM by fredhargis.)
(09-21-2016, 05:42 AM)fredhargis Wrote: John nailed it (no surprise), the box store spar varnishes are made almost exclusively with urethane resins which just don't do well in the outdoors. The true marine spar varnishes are a great choice, but I also want to suggest consider exterior untinted paint. More info here.The link goes to a slightly dated article that explains it a little better. But consider that since oil based paint is getting very hard to find, at least one member here (Cian, I believe) has used the SW exterior acrylic A 100, and it seems to be just fine as well. But don't overlook the caution John mentioned: any exterior clear finish will need maintenance, you won't find a lifetime solution. [url=http://www.askhlm.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx][/url]
(12-29-2016, 08:20 PM)cputnam Wrote: I'm surprised that no one has mentioned deep base tint paint. Dries clear. Quite possibly your best option.
Maybe you missed it above......
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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Oops......
Thanks, Curt
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(09-21-2016, 05:42 AM)fredhargis Wrote: John nailed it (no surprise), the box store spar varnishes are made almost exclusively with urethane resins which just don't do well in the outdoors. The true marine spar varnishes are a great choice, but I also want to suggest consider exterior untinted paint. More info here.The link goes to a slightly dated article that explains it a little better. But consider that since oil based paint is getting very hard to find, at least one member here (Cian, I believe) has used the SW exterior acrylic A 100, and it seems to be just fine as well. But don't overlook the caution John mentioned: any exterior clear finish will need maintenance, you won't find a lifetime solution. [url=http://www.askhlm.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx][/url]
Since the furniture will be under an awing this solution should work well.
I cant speak to harsh winters since the winter where I am is mild, but I've used the SW for about the past 5 years. So far it handles the sun well with no peeling or chalking.
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I thin out latex paint with water and stain the wood with that for color- if you want color, then apply at least 4 coats of regular minwax poly.
Although you can't really water proof it, it will last a long time if it just gets damp from blowing rain. The sun is the worst enemy here.
I haven't had any failures yet, other than one chair needing a re-coat because I only gave it three. I have one chair sitting out in the rain and sun, it is doing fine so far.
Oh- I make the chairs, but same senerio.
Place something like rubber feet on the bottom of the legs to keep them dry-er.
![[Image: Adriondack%20chairs%202%20002_zpsr8arkl03.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/daddo/Adriondack%20chairs%202%20002_zpsr8arkl03.jpg)
![[Image: andriod%20chair%20002_zpshrlpfh2x.jpg]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/daddo/andriod%20chair%20002_zpshrlpfh2x.jpg)
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01-08-2017, 09:19 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-08-2017, 09:52 AM by Jack in omaha.)
You did not say if you wanted to use a clear finish. The best result I have found is Sherwin Williams Duration exterior paint. The glossy finish is my my favorite. I use a lot and do several coats. It is expensive but I get it free at a local recycle chemical and paint site run by our county government. I think the stuff is an acrylic has the best resistance to outdoors. I will try some clear tint if I can find it.
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeown...ylic-latex
And, allow me to add the only reason I know this is that I asked the same thing here and this is what the very knowledgeable people here suggested. It worked well for me.
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