Armstrong Hardwood Flooring - Anyone used it?

[Snipe Hunter]

If the Armstrong Maple is the stuff I saw at Home Depot, that's a good price. I'm considering it for our master bedroom. I'm wondering if it's going to be a normal product offering. I don't remember them carrying it a year ago.

[MKepke]

For tile jobs, look at Tec Power Grout.

I wanted epoxy grout in a shower stall redo, but the tilesetters talked me into Power Grout. Two years on with daily use and iron rich water, some of the grout is slightly yellowed compared to 'dry' areas but unnoticeable unless you look for it. No sealing. No mildew either (although I squeegee the shower and leave the door open to dry).

-Mark

[jteneyck]

Having said I wouldn't use bamboo, I'm not about 80% sure we are going to use Cali Bamboo hardwood flooring.  They have a simple style with micro beveled edges in a monochromatic gray that we like.  It's rated to go over radiant heat, with all of the limitations they and everyone else make for that application.  I really didn't want to do a floating installation, but I'm now thinking this is best approach over the radiant heated floor, the whole thing can expand/contract as it wants. 

I've read good and bad about Cali Bamboo, no different than every other flooring company and type of flooring I've looked at.  But has anyone here used their product and, if so, what has been your experience?  Thanks.

John

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

John,

Just a few thoughts based on my hardwood flooring experiences. I don't know about Armstrong but I would look at where the wood is stored and if it's climate controlled. Look at the bundles. Are they bound together or loose in a box. Uncut the bundling straps and eyeball the boards for all the stuff you know to look for. Check the milling. Poorly milled T/G will be a nightmare. Yes, you will be malleting them into place and pulling a slight twist in with the nailer but this will be limiting to a certain degree. If you have a moisture meter, check it in multiple areas of the bundle. Of course acclimate so there's no a big shift in moisture content between the floor, subfloor and the whole house. I'm sure you know this.

If you dye your own unfinished floors you are then a site finished floor. Or you prefinish them all but take the whole microbevel concept into consideration or sock catchers will be inevitable.

I like site finished floors but I was very jealous of my friends 3/4" thick WO prefinished bedroom he did in 6 hours. He spent around $5 sq/ft. from "Prosource". He did buy over or around 1000 sq/ft. This was maybe 3-4 months ago. Prosource sells to contractors from what I know.

As you know, there are lots of high quality WB finishes out there. I used Lobadur or "Loba". The sealer is shellac based so still got a good color pop. Floors still look great after high traffic 2.5-3 years. $100 a gallon isn't cheap but in all reality it's cheap in the long run. It applies pretty easy with a T applicator floor squeegee. You need to put it in thicker than what your use to in comparison to a GF WB and a tabletop, per say. It touched up well too. The satin was perfect for us.

Also, the HF pneumatic nailer worked great for me. I bought Bostitch staples with it. T nails are better I'm told but the other areas of my floor had staples already so I was told to use staples with the new stuff too. I've used both in different homes I've had and I can't tell any difference.

A couple other thoughts. Add flush mount floor vents. They look great. Spline is cheap so I bought mine instead of making it. HF also sells a kit for hardwood that has wedges and an offset "L" shaped bar which pulls boards up against walls together. It's $10 a worth it for the bar alone IMO. There's commercial style levered ratchet jacks that push off the wall that work great too.

Your veneer skills would go a long ways at making your own medallion. Osh Kosh has good ones. Visiting their website would be good for ideas. Good luck Johnand I'm anxious to see them.

[brofessor]

never used Armstrong but have engineered hardwood throughout the house that are just joint glued and float on 1/4" foam. fairly easy installation and so far 7 years later they still hold up good. I would've preferred real hardwood but at 1/2 the price I'm very happy with engineered.

have you considered tile, the new wood tile is the new "thing" around here. if you're looking at a gray tone consider something like this.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/MARAZZI-Montagn.../205216805

best of luck in the decision