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This joint that Roly shows is very good. I use it all the time instead of dovetails. very easy to cut holds as good as a dovetail joint. I first found it on a very old chest of drawers and copied it to replace drawers in the piece. Soon after it just became my go to drawer joint. May not be as stylish as a dove tail but it works well.
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04-23-2017, 06:46 AM
(This post was last modified: 04-23-2017, 06:48 AM by fredhargis.)
That lock miter bit is good, but it can be frustrating to set up. Consider getting the
setup tool from Infinity to aid with that. The photo below is the very first lock miter I ever cut, and the very first pass with my bit...using the jig to set it up. You'll see it isn't perfect, but it a lot closer than it would be had I not used the jig. Two other thing: I concur with the commenst about 3/4" ply, a bit overkill. Also, you'll waste a lot less wood if you make the boxes without the toe kick cutouts. Then set them on a frame that's installed and leveled first.
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[quote pid='7461115' dateline='1492906618']
That lock miter bit is good, but it can be frustrating to set up. Consider getting the
setup tool from Infinity to aid with that. The photo below is the very first lock miter I ever cut, and the very first pass with my bit...using the jig to set it up. You'll see it isn't perfect, but it a lot closer than it would be had I not used the jig. Two other thing: I concur with the commenst about 3/4" ply, a bit overkill. Also, you'll waste a lot less wood if you make the boxes without the toe kick cutouts. Then set them on a frame that's installed and leveled first.
[/quote]
Ok Ok no 3/4 for drawers. I concur, and I haven't use 3/4 stock for drawers for the past 10 years. I just ordered the bit & jig, thanks.
I'm unclear what you mean when you say "make the boxes without the toe kick cutouts. Then set them on a frame that's installed and leveled first." If you level the base first, how do you join the base to the case and do you not have the toe kick at all?
I think I know what you mean but not certain.
Jim
Jim
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you make a platform to support the boxes so the cabinet boxes are shorter by the 4" or so you would have notched out of the ply for the toe kick. Big win on this is you level out the platform which is much easier to adjust as it weighs almost nothing. Then toss the boxes on it without have to shim each and everyone of them
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(04-23-2017, 12:54 PM)MsNomer Wrote: Every time I see this thread title, I think somebody has a new maid.
I'm it now. We talked about it to long. She won't get to enjoy it.
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(04-23-2017, 12:51 PM)Bob10 Wrote: you make a platform to support the boxes so the cabinet boxes are shorter by the 4" or so you would have notched out of the ply for the toe kick. Big win on this is you level out the platform which is much easier to adjust as it weighs almost nothing. Then toss the boxes on it without have to shim each and everyone of them
That's what I figured. Just checking before I screw things up. Thanks Bob
Jim
Jim